Mera Peak | 1985 W Face-Mera Peak W Smt

A Japan expedition to Mera Peak in 1985 via W Face-Mera Peak W Smt, led by Kunihiko Kondo. Summit reached on 17th March 1985. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2974
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MERA85101
Peak ID MERA
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-Mera Peak W Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kunihiko Kondo
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st?
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-03-10
Summit Date 1985-03-17
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 7
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Climbed W Summit (6255m)
High Point (m) 6255
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC/10/03,4400m),ABC(11/03,4600m),W-Smt(17/03,6255m)
Route Notes West Face of Mera Peak West: First ascent by Kunihiko Kondo The author got a rare inquiry to guide a woman to any 6000er where Makalu can be seen in the spring last year. He, at first did not take it as a serious request. Ms Michiko Kiyota, however, appeared to join his climbing in the spring through winter, and the author knew she would be competent to climb 6000ers, not walking up in Nepal. The author happened to see a picture of a travel agency and found an unclimbed rock face on the West Face of Mera Peak W. It looked a little bit too tough for the guided climbing, but he expected a gentler route might be in the face. The equipment was limited, including 25 rock pitons, 5 ice pitons, 3 friends, three sets of ropes and fixed day foods and a tent; 100 kg of weight, but he determined to ferry all by himself. It was a hasty tour only with 28 days to door to door. They were accompanied by 6 porters and Sherpa and a kitchen boy to arrive at Tangnag Kharka on March. He found a possible line through a couloir that runs up from the center toward left on the West Face. He made ABC (4600m) under the rock face next day. Climbing started on the 11th. He employed alpine style. Technically not so hard, but high winds never ceased whole day. Because he had to repeat up and down of a pitch for 3-4 times to ferry loads and clean the route, the climbing became quite a laborious one. The second night was on a terrace, and the third night was on a ledge where 1/3 of the tent was in the air. On the 14th, a big slab appeared and the progress slowed down. Next day the route was on the blue ice and the sixth night was beneath the ice ridge. The top was reached shortly before the noon of the 17th. His client could see not only Makalu, but Everest and Lhotse. They spent another night on the last biv terrace and continued abseiling for two days, returned to the BC on the 19th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449387
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-mera peak w smt

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kunihiko Kondo M 1945 Japan Leader Okayama, Japan Graphic designer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michiko Kiyota F - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MERA85101 AAJ - - - 60:224 (1986) -
MERA85101 IWA - - - :49 (1986) -
MERA85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622403/Asia-Nepal-Mera - - -