Manaslu North | 1983 S Ridge from N Col of Manaslu Main Peak from E

A UK expedition to Manaslu North in 1983 via S Ridge from N Col of Manaslu Main Peak from E, led by Dough Keelan. Summit reached on 10th May 1983. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1642
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANN83101
Peak ID MANN
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from N Col of Manaslu Main Peak from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Dough Keelan
Sponsor Joint Services E Nepal Expedition 1983
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-04-12
Summit Date 1983-05-10
Summit Time 1210
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6994
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits 4 Peaks in general area
Campsites BC(12/04,3840m),C1(17/04,4940m),C2(22/04,5550m),C3(29/04,6740m),Smt(10/05)
Route Notes In 1st summit bid on 1 May avalanches whistled around our ears and we were hit by one at 22,400 ft to N Col of Manaslu which took out all our marker poles but no one injured. Parsnos, Keelan, Last and Hattersley in this party and went down. Evacuated mountain for 3 days to let it clear. Then set in motion fast assault. No summit push after success of 10th because weather continued bad - heavy snowfall. On successful ascent, ridge more technically difficult, 1 km long and continuous pitch climbing mostly rock with cornices on E and 7000 ft on west. Started 4 am from C3 and on top 12 noon, returned to C3 site at 6 pm to find camp gone in avalanche and descended in dark to snow cave where spent dark hours after having recovered sleeping bags from debris of C3. 4 peaks in general areas including one near Tibet border after ascent of Manaslu North. Keelan - 28 May 83 British scaled a separate peak dominated by Manaslu about 2 and 1/2 minutes or 3 minutes north and slightly west of Manaslu. Altitude 23,400 ft seems correct. Seems Dutch were on a different peak north of this peak. Don't know where Czechs went. Thus possible British were first on this peak this spring.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448708
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from n col of manaslu main peak from e

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ian Edward (Ted) Atkins M 1958 UK Climber Cotgrave, Nottingham, E Midlands, England Corporal in Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
Doug Borthwick M 1960 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland Corporal in Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
Rod Fountain M 1940 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland Chief technician in Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
Jerry M. O. Gore M 1961 UK Climber Cardigan, Dyfed, Wales Lieutenant in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Charles W. Hattersley M 1949 UK Climber Brightlingsea, Essex, England Lieutenant Commander in Royal Navy Details Other expeditions
Keith E. Hunter M 1937 UK Climber Wirksworth, Derbyshire, England Flight Lieutenant in Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
G. Douglas B. Keelan M 1942 UK Leader Cargill-by-Perth, Tayside, Scotland Royal Marines (Major) Details Other expeditions
Stephen John (Steve) Last M 1956 UK Climber Durrington, Wiltshire, England Corporal in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Alastair R. O. Miller M 1954 UK Exp Doctor Cumbria, England Surgeon Lieutenant in Royal Navy Details Other expeditions
T. G. (Terry) Moore M 1953 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland Corporal in Royal Air Force Details Other expeditions
Patrick H. (Pat) Parsons M 1955 UK Deputy Leader Exmouth, Devon, England Royal Marines (Lieutenant) Details Other expeditions
Jamie Weyndling M 1959 UK Climber Newton Abbot, Devon, England Lieutenant in Royal Navy Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANN83101 AAJ Keelan, Douglas - - 58:250 (1984) -
MANN83101 MM - - - 92:9 (Jul 1983) -
MANN83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425000/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-North - - -