Manaslu North | 1979 N Ridge-N Smt from E

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Manaslu North in 1979 via N Ridge-N Smt from E, led by Vladimir Kripicka. Summit reached on 16th October 1979. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2976
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANN79301
Peak ID MANN
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge-N Smt from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Vladimir Kripicka
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon->Larkya (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-09-18
Summit Date 1979-10-16
Summit Time 1215
Summit Days 28
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1979-10-23
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6991
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4230m),C1(22/09,4690m),C2(28/09,5250m),C3(01/10,5700m),C4(10/10,6020m),C5(14/10,6410m),N-Smt(16,18/10)
Route Notes The report about activity of Czechoslovak expedition Manaslu North II -79 The camion truck Skoda 100.05 with all members of expedition crossed the Nepal-India boundary in Birgunj on 25.8.79 and the 31.8.79 came in to the capital of Nepal kingdom, KTM. On the 4.9.79 we transported by our truck into Trisuli Bazar. The caravan of 75 altitude porters, 10 members of expedition, one 1 officer, one sirdar, one high altitude porter, cook and kitchen boy left the 5.9.79 Trisuli and passed through Arughat, Jagat, Namrum, Sama, Samdo in the base camp which was built on the left side of Larkya Glacier on the 18.9.79 in altitude 4230m. On the 22.9.79 was built the C2 in the left side of Larkya Glacier in 4690m. We find by reconnaissance that direct way through the glacier falling from the saddle under North Ridge of Manaslu North II is not possible. For this reason we went by the rocky ridge of the right side of glacier. Under rocky saddle ont he beginning of glacier was built the C2 on the 29.9.79 in 5190m. The C3 was built the 1.10.79 on the North Ridge of Manaslu North II in 5690m. The way to the C3 let through icefall to the expansive saddle in the North Ridge and then on this ridge towards summit. The 2/3 of distance from C2 to C3. Camp was secured by fixed ropes. From the C3 we went at first on the sharp ridge which comes after about 300m into ice wall with 70 degree inclination ended by vertical ice step. C4 was built on the 9.10.79 in 6020m. All distance among C3 to C4 was secured by fixed ropes. Bad weather conditions, the daily snowfall, strong wind, bad visibility during establishment of camps were reasons of great retardation. Therefore the leader of expedition gave the following decision: From the C4 towards summit we will go with classique climbing methods, without fixed ropes. Two mountaineers Jan Cervinka and Otakar Srovnal went the 15.10.79 from the C4 with the equipment for the C5. The way passed on the flat ridge in the deep snow among big seracs into the 6200m. From this altitude they had to go only in the right side not long from the edge of ridge where inclination of slopes was around 70 degrees to vertical. In this part of way they went very slowly because they had to make steps into ice wall. On the place of the C5 they came about on 4 pm in the 6420m. The following day, 16.10.79 at 8 am both men went towards summit. The first part of the way let in ice and firm conditions about 45-degree inclinations after 300m overcame into the wide snowed firm ridge. After common advance stood both men Jan Cervinka and Ing Otakar Srovnal at 12:15 in the summit of Manaslu North II in the altitude 7157m. After hoist of Nepal and Czechoslovak flags and making photographic documentation began both men at 13:30 in strong wind descended and at 17:00 came in the C5. On the 17.10.79 they descended in to the C2. The second group of climbers, leader of expedition Vladimir Krupicka and Miroslav Novotny MD, slept on the 17.10.79 in the C5 and the following day 18.10.79 at 16:15 came on the summit in very bad weather conditions. Because weather changed, much cooled, the attempt going on the summit was stopped. We began the liquidation of camps and on the 22.10.79 were all members of expedition in the base camp. On the 23.10.79 with the 30 low-altitude porters started the caravan towards KTM which we reached on the 6.11.79. Dr. Novotny - 6 Nov 79 Climbed 2nd Manaslu North which is 70m higher than the Dutch Manaslu North. Route was North Ridge of Manaslu North. Difficult to reach Czech North Saddle - tried 2-3 days. Must return because of great icefall. Went east, very long but not dangerous way during rocks. Novotny has frostbitten little fingers. He was very tired during descent and needed oxygen. Others Ok. All returned to KTM today. Krupicka - 1 Sept 79 All now in KTM; leave KTM 3 Sept to Trisuli by truck. 70 porters on trail up Buri Gandaki to Samagaon to BC in 10-14 days from Trisuli. BC 4000m Manaslu North has 2 peaks according to Bolinder; higher which Dutch climbed in 1964 from south - Manaslu North I 7080m - Manaslu North II 7050m Manaslu I is south of II and both are directly north of main peak. Dutch went to Col north of main peak and then South Ridge. Czechs have permission for East Face of Manaslu North - new route.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447402
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge-n smt from e

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Krupicka M - Czechoslovakia Leader Spindleruv Mlyn, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Jan Cervinka M 1930 Czechoslovakia Climber Vrchlabi, Czechoslovakia Factory technician Details Other expeditions
Otakar Srovnal M 1942 Czechoslovakia Climber Zabreh, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Novotny M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Jicin, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Jan Kyncl M - Czechoslovakia Climber Vrchlabi, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Blahoslav Braun M - Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Tomas Filka M - Czechoslovakia Climber Spindleruv Mlyn, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Stanislav Safar M - Czechoslovakia Climber Trutnov, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Milan Rusy M - Czechoslovakia Climber Adrspach, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Jan Stursa M - Czechoslovakia Climber Vrchlabi, Czechoslovakia - Details Other expeditions
Walung Sonam Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Kathmandu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANN79301 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 53:620 (1980) -
MANN79301 - Novotny, Miroslav & Stursa, Jan Severni Manasulu Olympia, Prague - N167
MANN79301 - Czechoslovakia Expedition Krkonosska Horolezecka Expedice Himalaj '79 Czechoslovakia Expedition - C416
MANN79301 MM - - - 70:14 (Nov 1979) -
MANN79301 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -
MANN79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062002/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-North-II - - -