Manaslu North | 1964 S Ridge

A Netherlands expedition to Manaslu North in 1964 via S Ridge, led by Jan Boon. Summit reached on 25th October 1964. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2964
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANN64301
Peak ID MANN
Year 1964
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Jan Boon
Sponsor Royal Dutch Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1964-10-17
Summit Date 1964-10-25
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 8
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6994
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Intended to climb Nemjung (NEMJ-643-01)
Campsites BC(17/10,4250m),C1(19/10,5200m),C2(20/10),C3(22/10,6000m),C4(23/10,6400m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes Manaslu North I Route South Ridge Ascent - Huber Schriebl Jan de Lint Fons Driessen Nima Tenzing Sherpa Ila Tsering Sherpa Letter from Jan Boon - Nov 6, 1974 Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route could done, is of course out of question. This the reason why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new basecamp. Letter from Jan Boon - Oct 30, 1964 As you remember, I wrote you, the Himlung is from the Nepal side not possible to climb. Avalanches at day and night time. To cross the Tibetan border, from where a route is could done, is of course out of question. This is the reason, why we change from the Himlung to the Manaslu massiv. In 5 days we fix this. On Oct the 17th we arrive in the new base camp. Height 4250m. The 19th of Oct Camp I settled, 20th Camp II, 22th Oct Camp 3, 6000 meters, and C4 is a icefall from about 3000 ft. On the 25th Oct. Hubert Schriebl (Austria) which did the wonderful mean work, at midday reached the summit of the Manaslu with the two Sherpas Nima Tenzing and Jila Tsering, with the two Dutch members Jan de Lint and Fons Driessen. (Name of the summit Manaslu North Peak, about 23,100 ft or higher). I self was 500 ft under the summit, only a hour later as Schriebl, as a storm came, with a very cold temperature. I was all the time filming, but on the moment as the storm starts was every thing impossible. (I think the storm was more) Schriebl, now exspect to bring me in a second climb also to the summit could it not do, otherwise the storm would smash us many thousand feet down. (The summit of the Manaslu North Peak is very steep). Sherpas (taken from "Himalaya Hemel en Hel"): Ang Tsering (sirdar) Nima Tenzing Ila Tsering Tenzing Gyaltso Nawang Dorje Nima Dorje John Boyle - 4 April 2010 John Boyle states that the claimed Dutch ascent of Manaslu North was disproved by Anders Bolinder [unclear whether higher 6994m peak is referred to or the lower 6991m subpeak].
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441918
Year 1964
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jan Boon M 1909 Netherlands Leader Kitzbuehel, Austria Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Alfons J. (Fons) Driessen M 1942 Netherlands Deputy Leader Amsterdam, Netherlands Chemistry student at Technische Hogeschool, Delft Details Other expeditions
Jan Gerard De Lint M 1943 Netherlands Climber Hague, Netherlands Economics student (Economische Hogeschool, Rotterdam) Details Other expeditions
Hubert Schriebl M - Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Florentin Charles Dufour M 1941 Netherlands Climber Bilthoven, Netherlands Student of mining engineering at Technische Hogeschool, Delft Details Other expeditions
Nima Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ila Tshering Sherpa M 1936 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANN64301 AAJ De Lint, Jan G. - - 39:467-468 (1965) -
MANN64301 AJ Driessen, A. J. - - 70:122-123 (May 1965) -
MANN64301 - Boon, Jan Himalaya Hemel en Hel K.N.A.V., 's Gravenhage, Netherlands - -
MANN64301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546700/Asia-Nepal-Attempt-on-Himlung-Himal-and-Ascent-of-North-Peak-of-Manaslu - - -
MANN64301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20120-132%20Expeditions.pdf - - -