Manaslu | 1996 NE Face

A Mexico expedition to Manaslu in 1996 via NE Face, led by Carlos Carsolio. Summit reached on 12th May 1996. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1702
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA96101
Peak ID MANA
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Mexico
Leaders Carlos Carsolio
Sponsor Mexican International Expedition to Manaslu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 49th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Finland, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-03-30
Summit Date 1996-05-12
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 43
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1996-05-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,4050m),C1(07/04,5700m),C3(10/05,7100m),Biv(12/05,7900m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site of recent years C3 at NE Face in damaged tent left by Tibetans. 1st summit attempt from 29th April C1 in a continuous push by Alfredo and Carlos & reached 7950m at 4:00 pm. Because late in the day and storm coming, rested in biv (in scooped out snow) for 3-4 hours. Started down again in daylight and returned to BC that day, 30th April. Rested and then started up from BC on 8th May and stayed 1 day because weather "not looking good." Left C1 8:30 pm 9th May in another continuous push: arrived 7100m, rested there at 12:00 noon of 10th and big storm came including static fall from electricity in air. Had snowfall, wind and went out for attempt to go on up at 9:00 pm but stayed outside tent for only 20 mins and quickly retreated inside tent. 11th stayed at 7100m. 11th 8:30 pm again started up in stormy weather, "very difficult to orientate and very deep snow so we were very slow." Could not find a couloir & climbed rocky area and finally reached plateau at 8:00-9:00 am 12th May. Now no more snowfall, only very strong wind, so at least we could see" - "took us whole day to get to top because we had to fight with the wind." Reached top 6:00 pm. Last part is very tricky and difficult but surmounted this and arrived at very top, where found Tibetan prayer flags tied to their 60m-fixed rope. Spent 30 mins on top, then started down at 6:30 pm down tricky ridge to plateau and then dark in very dark night and very windy biv at 7900m with no tent or sack, but had good acclimatization from 1st summit bid. When daylight came, started down (still windy) and clear day able to get down during whole day to 7100m camp where slept finally (no sleep since 8:30 pm of 11th): "then we were "safe." Arrived BC on 15th descending slowly through day of 14th and its night through winds constantly and snowfall 14th afternoon and very foggy. "Very happy, satisfied" to have done 14 8000ers. Many Himalayan faces to be done in future. On K2 reached less than 20 from very highest point: "it was just there" on almost flat summit but very strong wind. [Viesturs, Gustafsson and Darsney planned to join this expedition after Everest, but never came due to the disaster on Everest.]
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement Consolio's 14th 8000er; brothers 1st summiters from western hemisphere
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453427
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alfredo Carsolio Larrea M 1967 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Leader Mexico City, Mexico Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Raul Carsolio Larrea M 1968 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Scott C. Darsney M 1961 USA Climber Unalaska, Alaska Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson M 1968 Finland Climber Espoo, Helsinki, Finland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA96101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 71:291-292 (1997) -
MANA96101 HIGH - - - 167:74-75 (Oct 1996) -
MANA96101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199729102/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Ascent-and-Fourth-Person-to-Climb-All-14-8000ers - - -