Manaslu | 1993 S Face (Austrian 1972 rte)

A Italy expedition to Manaslu in 1993 via S Face (Austrian 1972 rte), led by Paolo Paglino. Summit reached on 13th October 1993. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1268
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA93304
Peak ID MANA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (Austrian 1972 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Paolo Paglino
Sponsor Manaslu Expedition 1993
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 40th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-28
Summit Date 1993-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1993-10-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 800
Total Members 11
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4250m),C1(01/10,5000m),C2(03/10,5900m),C3(09/10,6500m),C4(11/10,7400m),Smt(13/10)
Route Notes BC at normal site for South Face (Thul Nagi Glacier) C1 at top of first wall (rock wall) C2 at middle of "butterfly valley" C3 at end of "butterfly valley" just before ice wall C4 at top of ice wall at summit plateau. C4 made by Mondinelli, Caronti, Paglino and Moretti on 11th Oct and slept there. 12th Moretti down with altitude sickness and other 3 tried for top. Reached 7600m and turned back because very cold (-25 degrees outside tent) and wind. 13th 3 again up from C4. Paglino and Coronti stopped at 8000m because of cold, but Mondinelli continued up and found piece of rope and what he thought were footprints of Russians near highest point. He is sure he reached very highest summit, it was clear weather and he looked around carefully and took 360-degree photos. No more summit attempts: too cold.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452482
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (austrian 1972 rte)

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Antonio Prestini M 1964 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Paolo Paglino M 1967 Italy Leader Borgosesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Claudio Bellassio M 1953 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Oil rig worker Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Caronti M 1960 Italy Climber Pavia, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Piero Gilodi M 1956 Italy Climber Cellio, Vercelli, Italy Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Walter Grober M 1963 Italy Climber Varallo Sesia, Vercelli, Italy Worker on rock walls (retaining walls) Details Other expeditions
Michele Melacarne M 1955 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Telephone worker Details Other expeditions
Sergio Minoggio M 1965 Italy Climber Nus, Aosta, Italy Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Government employee Details Other expeditions
Martino Moretti M 1949 Italy Climber Quarona, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alberto Zucchetti M 1966 Italy Climber Roccapietra, Vercelli, Italy Home construction worker Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA93304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:224 (1994) -
MANA93304 HIGH - - - 138:11 (May 1994) -
MANA93304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422401/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Ascents-Tragedy-and-Attempts - - -