Manaslu | 1993 NE Face

A Russia expedition to Manaslu in 1993 via NE Face, led by Valeri Karpenko. Summit reached on 19th October 1993. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1266
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA93303
Peak ID MANA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Valeri Karpenko
Sponsor Kamchatka Manaslu Expedition 1993
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 42nd,43rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-25
Summit Date 1993-10-19
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/09,4300m),ABC(26/09,4700m),C1(01/10,5600m),C2(02/10,6500m),C3(13/10,7200m),Smt(19,21/10)
Route Notes Area of C2 at 6500m looks very safe but after period of strong winds much snow collects and avalanches with disasterous results. C3 established after rest days & bad weather (much fresh snow). 19th Oct first summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Bichenko, Lopatnikov, but only Lopatnikov reached top. Big wind and snow drifts and very cold so only Lopatnikov, who started 40 minutes before them succeeded (he left C3 8:30 am, on top at 4 pm) because no snow to make cave in, only "icehill", strong wind but still no frostbite. Returned to C3 in morning of 20th and afternoon to C2. He took time to find which snowhill was highest point. He saw Austrian's crampon marks and is satisfied both he and Inhoeger reached highest point. 21st next summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Khmiliar and Jadrychinkov, but only Ivanova and Khimiliar to top (at c3 pm); Bekrin too cold. Khmiliar's crampon broke when 100m above C3 [in descent] and moved slowly. When Ivanova looked back after big wind he was absent. All night big snow drifts and think he was blown into falling into dangerous icefall area. Search produced no results. Jadrychnikov had came up to meet them. 22nd after search he and Ivanova, Bekrin slept at 6200m in descent. At 4 am 23rd avalanche struck their tent, which they had brought down from C2, and covered half of it. Bekrin cut open ceiling of tent in 5 minutes from side of tent not covered. They found Jadrychnikov after 20 minutes and he was dead. Body left in broken tent and survivors descended without equipment to C1 at 10 am. Too dangerous from avalanches to go up to recover body (French Manaslu II Sherpas avalanched here but survived). Climb now finished because of avalanche danger.
Accidents None except fatalities
Achievement -
Agency Kailash Journeys Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452488
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Igor Bekrin M 1969 Russia Climber Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexander Bichenko M 1962 Russia Climber Petropavlovsk, Kamchatka, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Boris Chadzin M 1949 Russia Climber Elizovo, Kamchatka, Russia Manager of private oil distributing company Details Other expeditions
Ekaterina Ivanova F 1962 Russia Climber Irkutsk, Russia Housewife Details Other expeditions
Sergei Jadrychnikov M 1956 Russia Climber Elizovo, Kamchatka, Russia School teacher Details Other expeditions
Valeri Karpenko M 1953 Russia Leader/Exp Doctor Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Igor Khmiliar M 1957 Russia Climber Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Lopatnikov M 1948 Russia Climber Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA93303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:224 (1994) -
MANA93303 HIGH - - - 138:10-11 (May 1994) -
MANA93303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199422401/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Ascents-Tragedy-and-Attempts - - -