Manaslu | 1991 E Face (to 7250m)

A USSR expedition to Manaslu in 1991 via E Face (to 7250m), led by Vladimir Shumichin. Summit reached on 6th May 1991. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 770
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA91102
Peak ID MANA
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (to 7250m)
Route 2 S Ridge up; NE Face down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USSR
Leaders Vladimir Shumichin
Sponsor First Ukrainian Himalaya Expedition 1991 Manaslu
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 36th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-03-22
Summit Date 1991-05-06
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 45
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1991-05-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,3950m),C1(25/03,5150m),C2(27/03,6500m),C3(07/04,6800m),Smt(06/05)
Route Notes BC on north side of Punggyen Glacier southwest of Kharka C3 on glacier before East Wall/Face C5 on South Ridge (series of bivouacs). After C2 took time; about 10 rope-lengths above C3 on east wall where USSR climbers fell in 1990; finished their old route but now too much snow and avalanching. Down to BC after reaching 7200-7300m 28th April E Face. Now 3 men from BC climbed alpine-style with no fixed ropes, no fixed camps, no O2 to S Ridge. Started 1st may from BC, went through C1 after drinking there and climbed through night to saddle if possible but bivouac 10-12 rope-lengths before saddle at 6500m; 2nd night at Polish saddle 7000m. 4th May daytime climb on S Ridge and bivouac before steep rock ridge at 7400m. 5th May very difficult and dangerous traverse to bivouac at 7850m. 6th May to top; left last bivouac at 6 am, on top after 10 hours (last ropes to the top very steep and dangerous snow avalanching) and carrying all gear in order to traverse and descend normal route and bivouac at 7900m. On 6th May on normal route which was NE Face ridge. 7th May down slowly because tired and did not know route to 7100m following old ropes sometimes and Italian BC 8th May where 2 Soviets met them and own BC early morning 9th May. Left BC 10th May.
Accidents None although some left early (not strong)
Achievement 1st traverse of Manaslu, 1st USSR ascent
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451589
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (to 7250m)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Igorevich Bershov M 1947 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Grigori Chub M 1940 USSR Deputy Leader Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Guennady Copeika M 1960 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Andrei Feschenko M 1958 USSR Film Team Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Film production manager Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Volodymyr) Gorbach M 1954 USSR Climber Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Victor Grichtchenko M 1943 USSR Climber Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Khitrikov M 1954 USSR Climber Dnepropetrovosk, Ukraine, USSR Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexei Likov M 1960 USSR Climber Donetsk, Ukraine, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexei Makarov M 1964 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Viktor Pastukh M 1957 USSR Exp Doctor Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Alexander Pelekh M 1951 USSR Film Team Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Television & radio engineer Details Other expeditions
Juri Prikchodko M 1953 USSR Climber Dnepropetrovosk, Ukraine, USSR Alpine club official Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Shumichin M 1939 USSR Leader Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Professor of metallurgy Details Other expeditions
Igor Svergun M 1966 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Anatoly Tanets M 1957 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Igor Tchaplinski M 1959 USSR Climber Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Vitaly Zaporozchenko M 1956 USSR Film Team Kiev, Ukraine, USSR Film director Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA91102 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 66:213 (1992) -
MANA91102 MM - - - 140:7 (Jul 1991) -
MANA91102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199221301/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Traverse - - -