Manaslu | 1990 SE Face

A USSR expedition to Manaslu in 1990 via SE Face, led by Kazbek Valiev. Summit reached on 7th October 1990. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 672
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA90302
Peak ID MANA
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USSR
Leaders Kazbek Valiev
Sponsor Manaslu 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Buri Gandaki
Basecamp Date 1990-09-26
Summit Date 1990-10-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1990-10-09
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal fall
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/09,4300m),Biv1(01/10,4800-5000m),Biv2(02/10,5600m),Biv3(03/10,6000m),Biv4(04/10,6450m),Biv5(05/10,6800m),Biv6(06/10,7000m),xxx(07/10,7200m)
Route Notes BC near gompa at Pungen Glacier Biv1 at deposit Biv2 near bergschrund Biv3 at bottom of rock face Biv4 at snow ridge Biv5 in last section of small ridge Biv6 on glacier. On 28th Sept made deposit on Pungen Glacier at 4800m or 5000m (had no altimeter and only Manaslu trekking map); only left equipment here. 2 days at BC. 1st Oct went to deposit, slept there and took equipment from it and went up "all 7 climbing members together and remained together." Above 6th biv wanted to climb not a ridge but corner of SE Face-E Face. 3 members climbed part of this rock and reached 7200m from where they fell to death near site of 6th biv. Climb immediately abandoned. 3 bodies buried in crevasse. 8th Oct 4 survivors to BC. Route "not so difficult" first part of face to night of dangerous because many ice avalanches. Had good weather and warm-hot sun from 6:00 am. 3-4 more days to surmount rest of face. "It's a real route." Found black rope (Yugo or Czech expedition's?) just above 3rd biv. This only trace of other climbers.
Accidents Fatal fall; no altitude sickness, all members had scaled 7000m peaks elsewhere
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451377
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Victor Dedi M 1959 USSR Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Murat Galiev M 1961 USSR Climber Tselinograd, Kazakhstan, USSR Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Zijnur Khalitov M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Grigori Luniakov M 1955 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Valentin Makarov M 1947 USSR Exp Doctor Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Andrei Tselischev M 1964 USSR Climber Ust-Kamenogorsk, Kazakhstan, USSR Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev M 1952 USSR Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA90302 AAJ Valiev, Kazbek - - 65:237-238 (1991) -
MANA90302 MM - - - 137:9 (Jan 1991) -
MANA90302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123703/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-East-Face-Tragedy - - -