Manaslu | 1987 NE Face (acclim) (to 7100m)

A Poland expedition to Manaslu in 1987 via NE Face (acclim) (to 7100m), led by Wojciech Szymanski. Summit reached on 20th May 1987. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 268
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA87102
Peak ID MANA
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (acclim) (to 7100m)
Route 2 SE Face (for summit attempt) (to 6800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Wojciech Szymanski
Sponsor Polish-Czechoslovak Punggen Face Manaslu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, W Germany
Approach Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
Basecamp Date 1987-04-16
Summit Date 1987-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1987-05-24
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to difficulty of dangerous SE Face
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/03,4400m),Biv(17/05,4800m),xxx(20/05,7100m)
Route Notes BC at bottom of East Ridge (above (left) of same) High point at SE Face. 20 April started to Pungen Glacier and 1st night on moraine and then traversed glacier to 5000m on slope/ridge going to pk29 to see face. Spent 2 nights and then back to BC (39 days at BC, only 6 with no snowfall) did acclimatization climbs on NE Face route to 6300m and 6000m (2nd time in chest-deep snow). 3rd acclimatization climb to 7100m on normal route on 13th May in much better snow conditions. All 3 trips alone by climbing at night, sleeping in day. 14th May started 4 members from BC to Pungen Glacier for climb of SE Face and at 4800m rested till 11 pm when 2 members began upward real climb and reached 5200m at base of SE Face to 1 am 19th May. 10:00 pm started up very steep sugar snow which was very dangerous; climbed this terrible snow up to very sharp horizontal ridge with many pinnacles. Now hopeless; minimum 2 days dangerous difficult climb with no chance of retreat if bad weather. Reached 6800m and then gave up when 3 days more without food and fuel. Horrible descent with no protection in warm daylight and had to wait till sun moved behind mountain and snow hardened. 7 pm back in biv at 6200m, 11 pm at 4800m, 4:00 BC 21st May. In night big SE Face is climbed but perhaps best in winter. 20th May decided not to attempt SE Face anymore, but thought to try NE face (normal route); 24 May decided abandon entire climb. SE Ridge attempt: 19 May 11:00 pm began going up from biv at 4800m 19 May 1:00 am reached 5200m and 7:30 am reached 6200m, where bivouacked 20 May 10:00 am reached 6800m 20 May 7:00 pm were back at 6200m bivouac 20 May 11:00 pm were back at 4800m biv 21 May 4:00 pm were back at BC and climb had ended 21 May at night big snowstorm began and lasted for 3 days, so now on 24 May gave up idea of trying normal route since supplies of food, etc were becoming exhausted.
Accidents Scevlik developed unknown illness and left after only 3 days at BC
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Rover
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450138
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (acclim) (to 7100m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eva Demant F 1939 W Germany Exp Doctor West Berlin, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Milan Matis M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Krysztof Pankiewicz M 1957 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Pavel Scevlik M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Liberec, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Szymanski M 1928 Poland Leader Torun, Poland Professor of chemistry Details Other expeditions
Ludwik Wilczynski M 1947 Poland Climber Bydgoszcz, Poland Classical philologist & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA87102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:213-214 (1988) -
MANA87102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821305/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt - - -