Manaslu | 1986 NE Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down

A Poland expedition to Manaslu in 1986 via NE Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down, led by Jerzy Kukuczka. Summit reached on 10th November 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 927
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA86301
Peak ID MANA
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jerzy Kukuczka
Sponsor Polish Manaslu and Annapurna Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 27th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mexico
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-08
Summit Date 1986-11-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 63
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1986-11-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Manaslu East Smt (7992m)
Campsites BC(08/09,4400m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(20/09/10,6400m),C3(24/10,7300m);Biv1(05/11,5500m),Biv2(06/11,6300m),Biv3(07/11,7300m),Biv4(08/11,7700m),E.Smt(09/11,7992m),Biv5(09/11,8000m),Smt(10/11)
Route Notes BC at bottom of NE Face, north of East Ridge C1 at east end of East Ridge from north side C2 on East Ridge C3 on East Ridge Biv very near old C3. After BC established, every day rain so waited till 19th Sept for better weather. 20th Sept bived at 6400m and 21st made camp there but 22 Sept down for food. Then snowfall. Again up 27th but 28th down because snowing again. 2 times more tried this route (2nd and 7th Oct) but heavy snowfall and many avalanches. 20th Oct 3 climbers up same route with heavy deep snow but good weather, reached C2 21st. Oct 22nd to 7000m and deposit supplies, then down in cold winds. 23rd waited in C2 and a member cold to BC. 24th 2 members up to C3. 25th up very difficult rock (100m up only and back to C3). 26th little more up and 29th up in summit bid by 2 members but reached 7600m when turned back in wind and snow. Ascent too slow so down to C2 on 29th to traverse to normal route like Austrians. 30th on NE Face 7300m not possible to pitch tent so stayed night without tent and 31st to BC via ridge clearing all camps as they went. 5th Nov final summit bid 3 members [Kukuczka, Hajzer and Carsolio] from BC and biv 5500m. 6th Nov 40m very hard climb on ice. 9th Nov arrived plateau with wind cloud at 8000m. 10th Nov very cold and Carlo's fingers and toes very cold, stays at biv while 2 members went quickly to top and returned by normal route to BC where arrived 12 Nov. Many avalanches, but no one hurt by them. Climbers started avalanches from C3 to 7600m very difficult and from 7600m 100m very difficult place rock with sugar snow.
Accidents Carlos bad frostbite in toes and fingers; will lose parts of fingers; Warecki got pneumonia and was evacuated from BC on 18 Sept
Achievement 1st ascent of E Summit by Carsolio, Hajzer and Kukuczka
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449946
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face-e ridge up; ne face down

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Elsa Flor Avila Bello F 1963 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Student, civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Student, civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Artur Henryk Hajzer M 1962 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Student, world cultures Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Leader Katowice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Wojciech (Voytek) Kurtyka M 1947 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Warecki M 1952 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Mechanic Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA86301 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 61:247 (1987) -
MANA86301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
MANA86301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
MANA86301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
MANA86301 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
MANA86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724701/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Northeast-Face - - -