Manaslu | 1985 E Ridge-NE Face

A Austria expedition to Manaslu in 1985 via E Ridge-NE Face, led by Wilfried Studer. Summit reached on 1st May 1985. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 185
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA85101
Peak ID MANA
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge-NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Wilfried Studer
Sponsor Vorarlberg-Tirol Himalayan Expedition 1985 Manaslu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Dara Khola
Basecamp Date 1985-04-07
Summit Date 1985-05-01
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 24
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1985-05-08
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes 2nd attempt aborted due to accident, bad weather
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4500m),C1(11/04,5500m),C2(13/04,6000m),C3(20/04,6500m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes BC on north side of East Ridge above Samagaon C1 on East Ridge C2 on East Ridge C3 east of Ridge at foot of NE Face. New route: last 700m steep rock and ice, and the altitude and steepness is not known; have little information of details of route (do not know if Yugoslavs climbed face). From C3 climbed to summit plateau crossing under NE Face. From plateau followed normal way to summit. On 23 April 1st summit bid by Studer, Ang Kami and Lhakpa (sirdar), but could not go above C3 on 24th because of heavy snowfall night of 23 April, so went down. On 29 Arpil again up (from BC on 29th to C2). Arrived C3 30 April. At 10:00 pm 30th started for top (night climb because always clear at night). Studer, Mayerhofer and Ang Kami set out, but Mayerhofer turned back after 100m because fingers freezing. Studer and Ang Kami climbed till moonlight gone at 1:00 am again moved up about 4:30 am and reached top 3:00 pm. Took longer than expected - spent night at saddle at 7400m waiting again for sun, Studer slight frostbite in feet on summit push. Gabl, Juen, Ljubanovic and Schranz left BC to C2 on 1 May and C3 on 2 May. 3 May much snowfall. 4 May from C3 at 5:00 am (3 men, Ljubanovic to BC). Gabl, Juen and Schranz reached 7300m at 10:00 am, couldn't find way from there to plateau in cloud, turned back at 3:00 pm when now snowfall stopped. Juen at 500m from C2 (not vertical distance) slipped in vertical icefall above C3 and avalanche started at same time and he was swept away with no sign of where he went. No more attempts at summit. Banskota, Tourism - 3 May 85 Studer and Ang Kami Sherpa summit from East Ridge to NE Face at 3:00 pm 1 May. Raised Nepal and Austrian flags and took photos. Cloudy and windy at top, 5 minutes stay. Started from C3 at 10:00 pm 30 Arpil. Studer returned BC 9:50 pm 1 May. Other 4 members intended to reach summit. Studer leaves BC for KTM arrival 6 May; others leave BC after 1 week from 3 May.
Accidents Studer slight frostbite in feet on summit push; 4 members left BC to camps due to much snowfall; Juen at 500m above C3 slipped in vertical icefall starting avalanche that swept him away
Achievement 1st ascent via E Ridge
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449387
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge-ne face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Guenter Assmann M 1957 Austria Climber Dornbirn, Vorarlberg, Austria Cinema cameraman Details Other expeditions
Christian Gabl M 1956 Austria Deputy Leader Schoenwies, Tirol, Austria Manager, branch bank Details Other expeditions
Thomas Juen M 1957 Austria Climber Landeck, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Theodor Ljubanovic M 1941 Austria Exp Doctor Zams, Tirol, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Mayerhofer M 1957 Austria Climber Bludenz, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Anton Schranz M 1955 Austria Climber Zams, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Josef Studer M 1956 Austria Leader Wolfurt, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA85101 AAJ Studer, Wilfried - - 60:238-239 (1986) -
MANA85101 MM - - - 105:11 (Sep 1985) -
MANA85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198623803/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-East-Ridge-and-Northeast-Face-and-Tragedy - - -