Manaslu | 1984 NE Face

A Italy expedition to Manaslu in 1984 via NE Face, led by Cesare Cesa Bianchi. Summit reached on 22nd October 1984. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1020
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA84302
Peak ID MANA
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Cesare Cesa Bianchi
Sponsor Cesa-Bianchi 8000 to Manaslu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-21
Summit Date 1984-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1984-10-27
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/09,3500m),C1(24/09,4900m),C2(26/09,5600m),C3(06/10,6300m),C4(20/10,6800m),C5(22/10,7500m),xxx(22/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC at usual site (1 hour from Samagaon) C1 beginning of glacier C2 at col between Manaslu and other peak (Naike Col) C3 at top of Icefall C4 on face C5 on start of summit plateau (usual site) High point at plateau. Between C1 and C2 crevasses not big problem but were there. C2 to C3 problem to find way in icefall and had not much rope (put 200m fixed rope) which took many days. 7th Oct started or top but 8th Oct in C2 started long snowstorm so down to BC. Again to C2 on 16th Oct in 1-1/2m deep snow (C1 buried so went direct to C2). Slow going up because of deep snow; technical difficulty between C2 and C3. 26 Oct doctor's daughter went to 5600m where big dangerous seracs begin - with father and mother. Bruno Honegger - 5 Nov 1984 Got to C1 carrying loads by ourselves; porters carried fuel but our gear Swiss carried several times; Sherpas sick or not carrying much. 4 Swiss got to C1 very fast and stayed there 3-4 days. Difficult this autumn: this spring no crevasses and could ski. Between C2 and C3 many crevasses and icefalls in autumn; had to fix 5 ropes between C2 and C3; really had to climb to C3 and took many days. 8 Oct started snowing 7 Oct reached C3 site and made depot and then back to C2. 6 Oct had hoped to go from C2 to top 9 Oct to BC = all 4 Swiss Snowed 9 days 17 Oct 4 Swiss started up again and had to make track; went to C2 (no tents in C1 for Swiss - Swiss had tent at C2 only); took 10 hours for Swiss to reach C2 at 5600-5700m, 17 Oct Italians started up too - later than Swiss 18 Oct Italians to C3 at 6300m 19 Oct 4 Swiss to C3 20 Oct 4 Swiss to C1 to yet supplies and up to C3 21 Oct 4 Swiss to C4 at 6800m; also 2 Italians and 1 Sherpa Ang 22 Oct all 7 to C4 in 5 hours quite hard; C5 7400-7500m steep snow and had to fix one rope; beautiful day, clear, no wind perfect for top; no crevasses above on way to top; but night wind came up all night. 23 Oct no chance to go up because of wind; figured could wait to start 10:00 am (figured 6 hours to top); windy all day. 24 Oct windy again; wind in fierce gusts; leaders wife went down because fingers freezing and sirdar toes freezing; sure 4 Swiss leader could get to top without wind; at 10:00 am "our last chance and we take it and go as far as we can;" got out of tent to go up but couldn't start up in wind so took down tent and cleared all camps including all garbage. 25 Oct return to BC; Swiss left BC 27 Oct. No frostbite, leader hurt knee slightly in final descent. C1 at start of glacier 4700m. 26 Oct may be Dr. and daughter to C1; Dr. and wife (Carla Bianchi) did no climbing above BC except this.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449195
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carla Bianchi F 1956 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Nurse Details Other expeditions
Claudio Cavenago M 1951 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Myriam Cavenago F 1977 Italy Member Milano, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Cesare Cesa Bianchi M 1950 Italy Leader Longone, Como, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christian Groh M 1957 Switzerland Climber Meiringen, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Honegger M 1954 Switzerland Climber Kloten, Zurich, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maria Christina Moneta F 1948 Italy Climber Longone, Como, Italy Secondary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Ernst Mueller M 1947 Switzerland Climber La-Punt, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexander Schlaeppi M 1960 Switzerland Climber Guttannen, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA84302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:280 (1985) -
MANA84302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528001/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt - - -