Manaslu | 1984 NE Face
A W Germany expedition to Manaslu in 1984 via NE Face, led by Hans Eitel. Summit reached on 30th April 1984. 7 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1568 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MANA84102 |
| Peak ID | MANA |
| Year | 1984 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | W Germany |
| Leaders | Hans Eitel |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 20th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Switzerland |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1984-03-28 |
| Summit Date | 1984-04-30 |
| Summit Time | 1330 |
| Summit Days | 33 |
| Total Days | 37 |
| Termination Date | 1984-05-04 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8163 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/03,3800m),C1(31/03,5200m),C2(14/04,6200m),C3(15/04,6900m),C4(16/04,7400m),Smt(30/04,11/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at usual site where there is grass and lots of water. Loretan and Ruedi down to BC on 18th April because of strong winds. 27th April started up again C2 28th April. 29th C4 and top on 30th. Burgener and Joos in C4 with summiters but tired and did not go up from C4 but wanted to try for top on 1 May. Loretan went to C3 on 30th but Ruedi lost crampon and stayed in C4 on 1st but could walk Ok and reached BC on 3rd May with Eitel and Co. who came up to see where and how he is. Joos has stayed on to make summit bid with Group II. Very strong windstorm and very cold at summit on 30 April. Prachanda Shrestha, Ministry of Tourism - 6 May 84 30 April summit 14:00 hours 1. Erhard Loretan (1959, Swiss motn guide, Mont Salvens) 2. Marcel Ruedi (1938, Swiss butcher, Winterthur) stayed on top 5-10 minutes weather cloudy with strong wind at top health good 29 April - Loretan and Marcel plus 2 other members, Norbert Joos (1968, Swiss mtn guide) and Werner Burgener (1958, Swiss forester, Luetschental) reached C4 (altitude not given). 1 May while descending from C4 Burgener lost his way, so on 2 May Hans Eitel, Peter Matthias and Sirdar Ang Chopal Sherpa ascended from C2 at 6200m to rescue Werner and found him in semi-conscious state in C4 tent. 3 May the 4 men brought Werner to BC safely and his health condition satisfactory on 4 May. Not mentioned whether more will attempt summit. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449020 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne face |
Members
7 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hans Volker Eitel | M | 1945 | W Germany | Leader | Heidelberg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Restaurant owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Matthias | M | 1957 | W Germany | Climber | Dossenheim, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marcel Ruedi | M | 1938 | Switzerland | Climber | Winterthur, Zurich, Switzerland | Butcher | Details Other expeditions |
| Werner Burgener | M | 1958 | Switzerland | Climber | Luetschental, Bern, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Norbert Joos | M | 1960 | Switzerland | Climber | Chur, Graubunden, Switzerland | Forest ranger | Details Other expeditions |
| Vinzenz Ullmann | M | 1938 | Switzerland | Exp Doctor | Dussnang, Thurgau, Switzerland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Erhard Loretan | M | 1959 | Switzerland | Climber | Chatel sur Mt. Salvers, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MANA84102 | AAJ | Loretan, Erhard | - | - | 59:279 (1985) | - |
| MANA84102 | MM | - | - | - | 99:9 (Sep 1984) | - |
| MANA84102 | - | Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard | Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 Rugissants | Editions La Sarine,Fribourg, Switzerland | - | - |
| MANA84102 | - | Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard | Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen Verfallen | Paulusverlag, Freiburg, Switzerland | - | - |
| MANA84102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527902/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Northeast-Face-Normal-Route | - | - | - |