Manaslu | 1983 NE Face

A S Korea expedition to Manaslu in 1983 via NE Face, led by Heo (Huh) Young-Ho. Summit reached on 22nd October 1983. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 124
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA83302
Peak ID MANA
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Heo (Huh) Young-Ho
Sponsor 1983 Korean Manaslu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 17th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-14
Summit Date 1983-10-22
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 38
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1983-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,4800m),C1(28/09,5200),C2(06/10,6400m),C3(07/10,7200m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes BC same site as Kato. In summit push, started from BC 16 Oct, on 19 Oct Heo (Huh) and Ang Jangbu Sherpa on C2 on 20 Oct they arrived C3. 21 Oct rested in C3 with strong wind. 22 Oct Huh left C3 alone with Ang Jangbu in C3. Left C3 3:30 am and reached top about 3:00-3:30 pm (in any case before Germans). 1000m to gain not so bad with his experience on Makalu. Returned to C3 7:30 pm. Last part hard snow and blue ice. Very tired on Huh's return to C3. BC on 23 Oct. Sherpas with him much of climb as far as C3. 2 Korean teammates went several times to C1. No fixed rope at all. Huh - 10 Nov 83 (referring to his diary) 14 Sept - BC established, snow fall 28 Sept - slept C1 5200m 1st time. Huh alone in this period. 29 Sept - going towards C2 but snow and retreated to BC same day 30 Sept - BC 1 Oct - went up with 2 Sherpas to C1 at 5200m 2 Oct - rest C1 - snow 3 Oct - rest C1 - snow 4 Oct - to BC 5 Oct - BC to C1 5200m with 2 Sherpas 6 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C2 at 6400m - slept in C2 7 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C3 at 7200m and slept in C3 8 Oct - Huh alone to plateau 7600-7700m and back to C3 at night 9 or 10 to BC and to Samagaon 15 Oct - leave Sama to BC 16 Oct - BC to site of C1 at 5200m - Huh and 2 Sherpas - biv in snowhole because tents buried in snow 17 Oct - find 2 tents - in C1 that day 18 Oct - Huh and 2 Sherpas making route above C1 19 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa arrive C2 6400m - took up tents from C1 20 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa to C3 at 7200m - took up same tents 21 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa Ang Jangbu stay in C3 tents - very strong wind 22 Oct - Huh alone above C3 to top and again to C3 (Sherpa sick) 23 Oct - Huh and 1 Sherpa down: Huh to BC, sick Sherpa to C1 (other Sherpa already at Sama) Khadga, Tourism Ministry- 27 Oct 83 Huh Young-Ho, born 54, clerk, Je Cheon city Summit on 22 Oct at 3:30 pm Hit by avalanche and thrown 45m while going towards C2 (date not given) from C1 6400m C2 7100m and continued climb despite this - not hurt by this avalanche. Left BC 24 Oct. Sang Man-Bea - 20 Oct 83 Huh and 2 Sherpas C3 made an about 7600m and then had to descend to BC because heavy snow. Same 3 started up again 15 Oct and maybe summit today. Sang stayed BC 15 days and went to C1. Sang will go by helicopter to bring Huh to KTM. Huh fell 50m into crevasse. Shrestha, Tourism Ministry- 13 Oct 83 Established C2 7100m 5 Oct C3 7680m 7 Oct Bad weather down to BC 9 Oct plan to start up again on 11 Oct. Alwin Leitner - 11 Oct 83 Austrians on Manaslu could see Korean expedition and could see four figures climbing NE Face, so not solo climb. Had no skis so moving more slowly than Leitner. Koreans coming back to KTM, should arrive KTM 16 or 17 Oct. The Plan The next mountaineer to come with hopes for a solo ascent was a South Korean, Huh Young-Ho, a 29 year old cement company clerk whose climbing experience also included a successful ascent of an 8000-metre mountain, Makalu, in the spring of 1982 on an expedition of which he was one amongst 16 members under another's leadership. Huh was to make the first solo climb of Manaslu, at 8163m the world's eight highest mountain. He would try an alpine-style ascent with no fixed camps, no oxygen cylinders and no companions. But one or two Koreans and two high altitude Sherpas would be with him at base camp, and if his solo attempt failed, then he would enlist their help, pitch three high camps and get to the summit on a non-solo ascent. The achievements Meanwhile the South Korean Huh had tried his own solo assault on Manaslu. His base camp had been pitched at 4800m on 14 Sept, but a long period of heavy snowfall followed, for the monsonn had not finished here. At last on 28 Sept he was able to spend his first night at 5200m. Next day he was moving higher when snow began falling and he was forced to retreat to base. That was the end of his solo attempt. In early October Huh and two Sherpas twiced above up to C1 at 5200m and in the second push Huh and Ang Jangbu Sherpa went all the way to C3, which they put at 7200m. On 8 Oct Huh managed to get to Manaslu's summit plateau at perhaps 7600m, but once again bad weather forced a retreat. Huh's ultimate push commenced on 16 October. He and Ang Jangbu gained C3 again on the 20th, waited out the strong winds of the 21st and finally Huh, having climbed the very last part from C3 struggle against nearly 1000 vertical metres of mountainside in very strong wind with no artificial oxygen to make the climb on hard snow and blue ice any easier. Not far below the summit Huh had been met by three West Germans, an Italian and two Sherpas from a predominantly German expedition on Manaslu's South Face. He preceded them to the very top and then returned to his own C3 in four hours descent. He too was very weary when he joined Ang Jangbu in C3 but next day he went all the way down to base camp safely while the Sherpa, who was not well, stopped that night in C1.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448828
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Young-Ho Heo M 1954 S Korea Leader Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea Clerk in cement company Details Other expeditions
Man-Bea Song M 1936 S Korea BC Manager Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea Reporter for broadcasting company Details Other expeditions
Ki-O Son M 1961 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA83302 AAJ Huh Young-Ho - - 58:248 (1984) -
MANA83302 MM - - - 96:11 (Mar 1984) -
MANA83302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424801/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Solo - - -