Manaslu | 1981 NE Face

A Japan expedition to Manaslu in 1981 via NE Face, led by Yasuo Kato. Summit reached on 12th October 1981. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1810
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA81302
Peak ID MANA
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuo Kato
Sponsor Japan Olympus Manaslu Expedition (Yeti Dojin Group)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 14th,15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-10-01
Summit Date 1981-10-12
Summit Time 1640
Summit Days 11
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4600m),C1(05/10,5900m),C2(07/10,6500m),C3(11/10,7150m),Smt(12,14/10)
Route Notes Kato, Tomita & Ozaki - 20 Oct 81 Ozaki on 12 Oct to summit above from C3 at 7150m; other 2 climbers on top 2 days later. Sherpas to C2 only and not staying there. Kato again frostbite from 1973; maybe on summit day which very cold, returned to C3 6:50 pm and after dark. Kato skied from C3 to C2. Wanted to ski from summit if had C4, but C4 not made because direct climb possible but very long. Came by helicopter today. BC - 1 Oct after storm 4600m C1 - 5 Oct - 5900m C2 - 7 Oct - 6500m C3 - 11 Oct - 7150m 12 Oct bad weather. Kato and Ozaki reached plateau. Ozaki kept on going and Kato waiting at plateau 7800m. Ozaki had camera and food, Kato film and walkie-talkie. Left C3 8:00, arrived plateau 11:30 am, at summit 4:40 pm and returned 6:00 pm. Kato waiting until 3:30 pm and returned to C3 about at C3 7:30 pm 13 Oct Ozaki to BC, Kato stayed in C3 and Tomita C2 to C3. 14 Oct Tomita and Kato to summit. No oxygen to BC at all. Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81 Summit via NE Face (standard route) by leader who scaled Everest twice, Kato and Masaaki Tomita without oxygen from C3 (14 Oct left C3 and returned to C3 same day). 4 members total, others not climbers. Tomita - 14 Sept 81 Route = NE Face (normal route) Approach via Sama village BC higher than 1976 Japanese-Iran BC 4950m 30 Sept C1 5900m 3 Oct - 5 Oct C2 6500m 5 Oct - 8 Oct C3 7150m 9 Oct - 14 Oct, established 9 Oct go down, reoccupy 14 Oct C4 7650 on summit plateau 15 Oct Ski down from summit by 3 members from 25m below top which is rock All 4 now in KTM Leave KTM 15 Sept; 2 weeks to BC so arrived BC 30 Sept Summit 16 Oct 4 Sherpas above BC; oxygen medical only
Accidents Kato's toes very badly frostbitten
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448086
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kumiko Kamata F 1956 Japan BC Manager Tochigi-shi, Tochigi, Japan Nursery-school teacher Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Kato M 1949 Japan Leader Omiya, Saitama, Japan President of Sonex International Co. (travel agents) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Tomita M 1956 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Mountaineering equipment shop salesman Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA81302 AAJ Kato, Yasuo - - 56:226 (1982) -
MANA81302 MM - - - 83:9 (Jan 1982) -
MANA81302 IWA - - - 88:189 (1982) -
MANA81302 IWA - - - 88:47-48 (1982) -
MANA81302 - Kato, Yasuo To the Plume of the Mountains Chuokoron, Tokyo - jK69
MANA81302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222602/Asia-Nepal-Mansalu - - -