Manaslu | 1980 NE Face
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Manaslu in 1980 via NE Face, led by Margita Sterbova. Summit reached on 17th October 1980. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1893 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MANA80302 |
| Peak ID | MANA |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Margita Sterbova |
| Sponsor | First Czech Ladies Expedition Himalaya 1980 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Trisuli Bazaar->Arughat->Samagaon |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-09-26 |
| Summit Date | 1980-10-17 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 21 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather (high winds) |
| High Point (m) | 7200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/09,3825m),C1(29/09,4915m),C2(01/10,5775m),C3(06/10,6500m),C4(10/10,6800m),xxx(17/10,7200m) |
| Route Notes | Sterbova - 10 Nov 80 First camps established quickly with help of many local porters. After 10 Oct came bad weather, snow and wind and after 15 Oct very cold. C3 established after going down from C2; C3 about 6 Oct at 6500m. C4 about 10 Oct at 6800-6900m near North Col. Again bad weather for several days. From 15 Oct half of members waited in C2 for good weather but on summit ridge very cold, -30 degrees C and daily snow in evening. Route had been fixed up summit ridge by Austrians but Czechs could not go on ridge with 4-5 days good weather, but with cold and very bad winds not possible. Expedition cancelled 23 Oct. High point on ridge reached by Jana Koukalova, Marusincova and Sterba at 7200m on several days, on 22 Oct by 2 women and by leader's husband 5 days before with Rolf Wiederhofer; never tried to climb South Ridge. Had always waited to do NE Face and Schell readily agreed when met at BC. No accidents, frostbite, serious illness. Goeschl and Gruber - 27 Oct 80 Austrian Manaslu Expedition Czech women went on same route as Austrains behind Austrians; used Austrians fixed rope. Sterbova - 8 Sept 80 Czech ladies go to Manaslu. South Ridge, same as Polish 1980 spring; if it is too hard we will change the route to NE Face joining Austrians. Leave KTM tomorrow by road to Trisuli Bazaar-Arughat-Jakat-Samagaon 13 to 15 days to BC at 4000m at foot of South Ridge 5 camps above BC with C5 7500m 4 Sherpas above including sirdar Ang Temba Oxygen for medical only Summit end of Oct Hroza, Himalchuli exp - 9 Sept 80 Highest point reached by Czechoslovak woman (except Vera Komarkova on Annapurna I) is 7400m on Noshaq by Manaslu ladies leader. Noshaq = 7492m in Hindu Kush soloed by Mrs Sterbova according to Cleare's book (point 1554) in 1977 from Kabul (mtn appears to be on Afghan-Pakistan border). |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447725 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dagmar Filgasova | F | 1951 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Ostrava, Czechoslovakia | Designer in sports-equipment factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Petr Hapala | M | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Frydek-Mistek, Czechoslovakia | Biologist working in water purification | Details Other expeditions |
| Bretislav Husicka | M | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Olomouc, Czechoslovakia | Worker in chocolate factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Jursa | M | 1939 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Frydek-Mistak, Czechoslovakia | Electrical technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jana Koukalova | F | 1935 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Frydlant, Czechoslovakia | Telephone technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Eva Liscinska | F | 1940 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Brno, Czechoslovakia | Psychiatrist | Details Other expeditions |
| Bozena Marusincova | F | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Trutnov, Czechoslovakia | Clerk in a hotel | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie Skopalova | F | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Brno, Czechoslovakia | Clerk in railway office | Details Other expeditions |
| Milena Strelcova | F | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Ostrava, Czechoslovakia | Designer in factory producing machines | Details Other expeditions |
| Marta Spakulova | F | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Kosice, Czechoslovakia | Biologist (university teacher on medical faculty) | Details Other expeditions |
| Otakar Sterba | M | 1933 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Olomouc, Czechoslovakia | University biology teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Margita Dina Sterbova | F | 1940 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Olomouc, Czechoslovakia | Teacher, mathematics in university | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MANA80302 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:260 (1981) | - |
| MANA80302 | MM | - | - | - | 77:11 (Jan 1981) | - |
| MANA80302 | - | Sterbova, Margita | Ceska Zenska Horolezka Expedice | Sporty Brno, Ostrava, Czechoslovakia | - | S742 |
| MANA80302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126003/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt-by-Czech-Women | - | - | - |