Manaslu | 1979 E Ridge

A Argentina expedition to Manaslu in 1979 via E Ridge, led by Guillermo Vieiro. Summit reached on 4th October 1979. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2104
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA79301
Peak ID MANA
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Argentina
Leaders Guillermo Vieiro
Sponsor Fourth Argentine Expedition to the Himalaya to Manaslu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli Bazer->Buri Gandaki->Samagaon
Basecamp Date 1979-09-02
Summit Date 1979-10-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to fatal accident and continuing bad weather
High Point (m) 6550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/09,4270m),C1(10/09,5400m),C2(30/09,5980m),C3(04/10,6550m),xxx(6550m)
Route Notes Letter from Deputy Leader Hector Cuinas - Nov 79 Base Camp was located at 4370m about 250m above a "kharka" (yak pasture field, where there are some sheperd's huts - this site has the base camp of the Japanese Expedition). It is an excellent place, without wind and with a good view of the whole valley. The only problem is that water may be scarce towards the end of October. From base camp we followed the course of a stream. Thereafter we but stone signals indicating the way to the glacier at the base of the East Ridge. From here we proceeded directly upwards to the foot of the rock pillar. We then climbed this pillar up to the point where it gets very vertical. From here we made a long traverse along a chain of shelters up to a point where it is necessary to descend about 5 metres and follow the snow couloir for about 60 metres. We then proceeded to the right side and continued bordering the rock (the name here given to this sector of the rock pillar is 'the boot') until we reached the upper part of the ridge. Following the ridge for one hour we reached a small col where we placed C2 at approx 5400m. From C1 we continued about the ridge up to the point where it gets wider (this place is extremely dangerous due to the snow plaque slides). It is better to descend towards the left and follow the border of the wall that faces Peak 29. From here the way up is easy until the ridge gets rocky and sharp. We climbed the southeast part of the ridge until we reached the top, and then continued along same for about 80 metres, up to the point where it becomes a tower. From there we fixed one rope that descended directly the east wall of the ridge and another that descended the West Face about 15 metres. We then continued traversing and slighly ascending for about 250 metres up to the point where the rock finished and slope is continued by a series of ice couloirs. From here we abseiled about 40 metres to reach the interiour plateau and then proceeded on easy ground up to C2 (a snow dome at the end of the ridge where it widens) at about 5980 metres. From C2 we proceed directly to the upper part of a big plateau starting point of the traverese leading to the East Ridge of Manaslu (6500m). Jasson & Cuinas - 13 Nov 79 All differences amongst members after climbing abandoned. Mountain too big for leader who came for book and film. Climbing stopped because of bad weather. Best climbers from Argentina, but leader (Vieiro) didn't know what he was doing. Bad weather = continuous snowfall - only 3 days of good weather till 8 Oct when accident occurred. C3 site at 6550m reached on about 4 Oct, tent dumped but never occupied. Accident = snow slab that moved only 40 meters on only 30-degree slope. Another such avalanche buried another member during clearance of mountain. Both happened in area where not at all to be expected and where had after passed safely and was 3 days after snowfall. First and fatal avalanche hit Cuinas and Porcellana, who both then fell over ice cliff another 40m. Cuinas Ok, but Porcellana's neck broken. Porcellana buried where he fell. 2nd avalanche hit Castiarena about 18 (or 19) Oct at same altitude on other side of ridge and presumably safer place. East Ridge is really long route. Would not attempt it alpine-style as French tried. Didn't seem very difficult above C3 but couldn't see traverse nearly 8000m leading from Ridge to summit plateau. Stopped climbing after accident. Didn't want to go on climbing after that. Too late also, and bad weather continued for 10 days. Might have gone on if chances of getting to summit seemed good. Rockfall caused 2 stitches on Vitalis head midway on rock buttress at 5100m. (But not frequent falls) can be avoided. No chance to go up ridge except by harder rock at 4900-5200m buttress, not by easy-looking and dangerous couloir. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 11 Oct 79 Edgardo Jose Porcellana killed when hit by avalanche 8 Oct at 5500m; he was going to C2 from C1. C2 established 30 Sept at 5980m. Expedition abandoned attempt because his death. Bruchhausen - 23 Sept 79 Bruchhausen left BC Sunday 16th and weather turned for better. C2 should have been put at about 6100m next day and by now C3 at about 7000-7100m. Big problem was rock spur where 800m fixed rope was required. Vitale hit by falling rock which gave him 2-inch cut and kept him inactive 5 days. Planning 4 camps. Ridge seems easy until pinnacle. Last camp just after pinnacle at about 7900m. If however require fixed ropes around pinnacle, then one camp below it at 7700m and one above near 8000m. In cloudy weather hadn't been able to get good look at this area. Bruchhausen has virus; he will see how he is after 1 week and then if much better, go back to expedition with next runner. Vieiro - 5 Aug 79 Road to Trisuli Bazaar; about 700 tons with about 300 porters No HA Sherpas No oxygen (20 bottles for medical only) 5 or 6 high camps - some fixed rope if necessary Route = East Ridge (same as 1977 French and 1979 Italian) Want put a C5 after East pinnacle so have good chance for summit 1 doctor (will not go high at all) 10 climbers 1 journalist 1 cinematographer 1 BC mgr -- 14 members 1-2 months climbing BC to summit. Will not risk all on alpine-style ascent. If things go smoothly, will climb in 5 weeks, but willing to wait out storms for 7 most total. "If we can't climb it in 5 weeks we shouldn't have come here." Bruchhausen - 13 Aug 79 This is a very nationalistic expedition, thus they have given his residence as Buenos Aires when for past 11 years has lived in US.
Accidents Porcellana killed by avalanche [between C1 and C2]
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447345
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marcelo Claudio Aguilar M 1957 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Medical student Details Other expeditions
Peter Bruchhausen M 1936 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina & Long Island City, NY Oceanographer Details Other expeditions
Pablo Castiarena M 1956 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Julio Corradi M 1920 Argentina BC Manager Mendoza, Argentina Interior architect Details Other expeditions
Hector Fernando Cuinas M 1948 Argentina Deputy Leader Buenos Aires, Argentina Manager in radio-transceiver manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Jorge Alberto De Leon M 1938 Argentina Cinematographer Buenos Aires, Argentina - Details Other expeditions
Ernesto Fiorentini M 1933 Argentina Exp Doctor Mendoza, Argentina Physician Details Other expeditions
Jorge Jasson M 1957 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina High school mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Gerardo Maioli M 1955 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina High school chemistry teacher Details Other expeditions
Avedis (Avo) Naccachian M 1944 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Owner, stainless-steel manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Edgardo Jose Porcellana M 1950 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Diego Rueda M 1954 Argentina Journalist Buenos Aires, Argentina Journalist with news-magazine; photographer Details Other expeditions
Guillermo Vieiro M 1941 Argentina Leader Buenos Aires, Argentina Electro-mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ulises Sila Vitale M 1936 Argentina Climber Mendoza, Argentina Owner of household-appliance shop Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA79301 AAJ Bruchhausen, Peter - - 53:619-620 (1980) -
MANA79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061900/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-East-Ridge-Attempt - - -