Manaslu | 1979 E Ridge

A Italy expedition to Manaslu in 1979 via E Ridge, led by Lorenzo Massarotto. Summit reached on 1st May 1979. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2088
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA79101
Peak ID MANA
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Lorenzo Massarotto
Sponsor Expedition to Manaslu from the Italian Alpine Club's Cittadela
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-04-01
Summit Date 1979-05-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1979-05-17
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to avalanching
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04,3870m),C1(07/04,4820m),C2(15/04,5700m),C3(25/04,6700m),C4(05/05,7200m),xxx(01/05,7500m)
Route Notes Massarotto - 3 June 79 15 May stopped climbing in C3. 5 days in C3, no good weather with 3 avalanches. C3 and C4 taken away by avalanche 16 May. Highest point 7500m 1 May. 45 days of expedition, only 15 days good weather. Route = East Ridge: very difficult and much snow avalanching at night; route is possible. De Savorgnani - 8 May 79 De Savorgnani and Terrin arrive today by army helicopter from BC. Little avalanche hit 2 members sleeping in C4 and we think not dangerous for avalanche, but this night snow fell and almost vertical spot where made place for 1 tent with only 2 men. 5 May these 2 men and 2 Sherpas made C4 at 7200m. Sherpas went down and could not find way to C3 because cloud and strong wind. Spent night out same night but they Ok. Frostbite all fingers; toes only little frostbite but fingers all black. East Ridge route - leader: would have reached summit if no avalanche. Today 5 men (all except Dr) woule be on summit. All now in BC, shaken but will go up. Summit after 1 week. No more camps and no oxygen at all. Avalanche hit at 8:00 pm while preparing to sleep; tent destroyed by their escaping. Want to go to Innsbruck quickly for best treatment. Massaroto & De Savorgnani - 7 March 79 Same route as 1977 autumn French. 6 members, all in KTM. Leave KTM after cargo arrives, perhaps after one week. BC at about 5000m or more, above French BC. French C1 at 5600m destroyed by avalanche, so C1 also higher at 6000m. From there must climb quickly to ridge at 6200m and C2 above this; where will decide only when on the spot. Above there, if weather is good, only bivouacs above C2 climbing problem technically at pinnacle at 7895m. Must turn pinnacle quickly, then 1 km of route to summit which is at very high altitude. From BC to summit no more than 4 weeks; problem is acclimatization. 4 Sherpas above BC incl sirdar Ang Dorje (Everest 1978 autumn without oxygen). No oxygen for climbing or sleeping if possible; only 6 bottles with expedition.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447189
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vittorio De Savorgnani M 1954 Italy Climber Vittorio Veneto, Treviso, Italy Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Bruno Di Lenna M 1942 Italy Exp Doctor Campodarsego, Padua, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Lorenzo Massarotto M 1950 Italy Leader Villa del Conte, Padua, Italy Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Marco Simoni M 1953 Italy Climber Transacqua, Trento, Italy Worker & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Elvio Terrin M 1957 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Cabinetmaker Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Zanolla M 1958 Italy Climber Feltre, Belluno, Italy Has finished military service; will be mountaineer Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA79101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 53:620 (1980) -
MANA79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062001/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt - - -