Manaslu | 1976 NE Face
A Japan expedition to Manaslu in 1976 via NE Face, led by Nobuyoshi Tamura, Mohammed Khakbiz. Summit reached on 12th October 1976. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2188 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MANA76301 |
| Peak ID | MANA |
| Year | 1976 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Nobuyoshi Tamura, Mohammed Khakbiz |
| Sponsor | Iran-Japan Mt. Manaslu Joint Expedition 1976 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 8th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Iran, W Germany |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1976-09-06 |
| Summit Date | 1976-10-12 |
| Summit Time | 1543 |
| Summit Days | 36 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8163 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 18 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 21 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06/09,3850m),C1(09/09,4920m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(03/10,6200m),C4(08/10,7150m),C5(11/10,7650m),Smt(12/10) |
| Route Notes | Misha Saleki - 24 Feb 79 Saleki does not believe that a Persian reached Manaslu's summit in 1976. He has seen summit photos and none shows Persian with anyone else. Even Japanese photo has him alone and is black and white and blurred whereas Japanese had color of others. Tamura - 2 Nov 76 C2-C3 most difficult because in post-monsoon many crevasses which opened wider; 1 crevasse has 6 ladders joined. Very dangerous at end. Route making very hard work. Next most difficult C4 to C5: plateau very strong wind and cold and cold and final ascent time. 12 Oct, left C5 6:30 am but inside oxygen mask frozen and returned to camp. Left C5 8:30 am and reached top 3:43 pm by Assadi, Kageyama and Pasang. Did not find body on plateau. Much snow in post-monsoon. Route same as Japanese women = East Face. I hoped put 3 teams 4 men each but some not well acclimatized, some didn't like food other meals brought (2 members lost 10 kg). No 2nd summit attempt as no others in summit condition. Kageyama little frostbite his toes but already heeled; Assadi little finger and also healed. All members in KTM. MB Pandey, MFA - 13 Oct 76 Oct 11 C5 7650m Oct 12 summit by Jun Kageyama, Japan, 47 years Mohammad Jafar Assadi, 45 years Pasang Sherpa, Nepal General Khakbis - 15 Aug 76 (by telephone) Expedition leave KTM tomorrow 10:00 am by bus and 7 trucks to Trisuli Bazar; after 2 days Trisuli Bazar set out for Sama with 500 porters. This expedition Iranians part is part of Iranians Mtn Federation's celebration of 50th anniversary of Pohlavi monarchy. 20 in groups to 5 mountains of which Manaslu is highest. Carrying special arms and flags for summit (other groups already climbed Fuji and Rosa on Swiss-Italy border). Tamura - 8 Aug 76 Same route as Japanese women's success route on East Face and slightly different from 1956. If now successful will be 1st post-moonsoon success on Manaslu. Chose Manaslu as 8000m peak, but not so difficult and this Iranian Mtn federation first time in Nepal Himalaya; maybe Iranians come to Everest: this is test. Iran-Japan friendship 5 years old. Tamura climbed in Turkey and Iran with Iranian and Iran MT Federation invited Japanese. Pres IMF visited Japan and spoke of hope of joint expedition which then worked out. Advance party 2 Japanese and 2 Iranians arrive 2 weeks before main party on 6 Aug; 3 more to come; total 20. Leave 15 Aug for Trisuli Bazar by truck and caravan of 17-20 days to BC near Sama village at 4350m. C5 highest camp at about 7650m (about same as Japanese ladies, he thinks) Very dangerous and difficult between C2 and C3, avalanche danger. Summit about Oct 1-10 when big white birds migrate. Come south from Tibet. One month for climbing 21 HA Sherpas and 2 cooks, 4 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners Oxygen for climbing from 7000m (C4). Hope put total 10 men on top in 3 parties. Iranians may be better acclimatized because live and climb at higher altitude. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446210 |
| Year | 1976 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne face |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mohammad Jafar Assadi | M | - | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Army officer (Lieutenant) | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad Behzadi | M | - | Iran | Climber | Rezaieh, Iran | Employee of Ministry of Agriculture | Details Other expeditions |
| Ghasem Dadfarmay | M | - | Iran | Exp Manager | Tehran, Iran | Works in transport section, government sugar company | Details Other expeditions |
| Jalal Foroozan | M | - | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Proprietor of stationary shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Gorter | M | 1908 | W Germany | Climber | Munich, Bavaria, W Germany | Professional photographer hired by Iranians to photograph exped | Details Other expeditions |
| Yosef Hendi | M | - | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Non-commissioned officer in the army (Master Sgt) | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad Khakbiz | M | - | Iran | Commander-in-Chief | Tehran, Iran | Army officer (Brigadier General) | Details Other expeditions |
| Ali Mohamadpour | M | - | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Staff member, mining company | Details Other expeditions |
| Mokhtar Mehdizadeh | M | - | Iran | Deputy Leader | Tehran, Iran | Printer | Details Other expeditions |
| Masanao Iijima | M | - | Japan | Climber | Nagano, Japan | Journalist (Shinano Mainichi) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jun Kageyama | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsuyoshi Kazama | M | - | Japan | Climber | Nagano, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Kimura | M | - | Japan | Manager | Nagoya, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rye Shimada | M | - | Japan | Climber | Suwa, Nagano, Japan | President, ski shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Kimio Shimiju | M | 1948 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Shinshu University doctor | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiyoshi Shimizu | M | - | Japan | Climber | Suwa, Nagano, Japan | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Noriaki Soga | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Employee of ski shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuyoshi Tamura | M | - | Japan | Climbing Leader | Nagano, Japan | Telegraph officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Taksindu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MANA76301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 51:239 (1977) | - |
| MANA76301 | MM | - | - | - | 53:11 (Jan 1977) | - |
| MANA76301 | IWA | - | - | - | 55:149 (1977) | - |
| MANA76301 | IWA | - | - | - | 55:33-34 (1977) | - |
| MANA76301 | - | Iran-Japan Friendship Expedition | Friendship Going Beyond Manaslu | Shinano, Tokyo | - | jN101 |