Manaslu | 1976 NE Face

A Japan expedition to Manaslu in 1976 via NE Face, led by Nobuyoshi Tamura, Mohammed Khakbiz. Summit reached on 12th October 1976. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2188
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA76301
Peak ID MANA
Year 1976
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobuyoshi Tamura, Mohammed Khakbiz
Sponsor Iran-Japan Mt. Manaslu Joint Expedition 1976
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Iran, W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1976-09-06
Summit Date 1976-10-12
Summit Time 1543
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 21
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,3850m),C1(09/09,4920m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(03/10,6200m),C4(08/10,7150m),C5(11/10,7650m),Smt(12/10)
Route Notes Misha Saleki - 24 Feb 79 Saleki does not believe that a Persian reached Manaslu's summit in 1976. He has seen summit photos and none shows Persian with anyone else. Even Japanese photo has him alone and is black and white and blurred whereas Japanese had color of others. Tamura - 2 Nov 76 C2-C3 most difficult because in post-monsoon many crevasses which opened wider; 1 crevasse has 6 ladders joined. Very dangerous at end. Route making very hard work. Next most difficult C4 to C5: plateau very strong wind and cold and cold and final ascent time. 12 Oct, left C5 6:30 am but inside oxygen mask frozen and returned to camp. Left C5 8:30 am and reached top 3:43 pm by Assadi, Kageyama and Pasang. Did not find body on plateau. Much snow in post-monsoon. Route same as Japanese women = East Face. I hoped put 3 teams 4 men each but some not well acclimatized, some didn't like food other meals brought (2 members lost 10 kg). No 2nd summit attempt as no others in summit condition. Kageyama little frostbite his toes but already heeled; Assadi little finger and also healed. All members in KTM. MB Pandey, MFA - 13 Oct 76 Oct 11 C5 7650m Oct 12 summit by Jun Kageyama, Japan, 47 years Mohammad Jafar Assadi, 45 years Pasang Sherpa, Nepal General Khakbis - 15 Aug 76 (by telephone) Expedition leave KTM tomorrow 10:00 am by bus and 7 trucks to Trisuli Bazar; after 2 days Trisuli Bazar set out for Sama with 500 porters. This expedition Iranians part is part of Iranians Mtn Federation's celebration of 50th anniversary of Pohlavi monarchy. 20 in groups to 5 mountains of which Manaslu is highest. Carrying special arms and flags for summit (other groups already climbed Fuji and Rosa on Swiss-Italy border). Tamura - 8 Aug 76 Same route as Japanese women's success route on East Face and slightly different from 1956. If now successful will be 1st post-moonsoon success on Manaslu. Chose Manaslu as 8000m peak, but not so difficult and this Iranian Mtn federation first time in Nepal Himalaya; maybe Iranians come to Everest: this is test. Iran-Japan friendship 5 years old. Tamura climbed in Turkey and Iran with Iranian and Iran MT Federation invited Japanese. Pres IMF visited Japan and spoke of hope of joint expedition which then worked out. Advance party 2 Japanese and 2 Iranians arrive 2 weeks before main party on 6 Aug; 3 more to come; total 20. Leave 15 Aug for Trisuli Bazar by truck and caravan of 17-20 days to BC near Sama village at 4350m. C5 highest camp at about 7650m (about same as Japanese ladies, he thinks) Very dangerous and difficult between C2 and C3, avalanche danger. Summit about Oct 1-10 when big white birds migrate. Come south from Tibet. One month for climbing 21 HA Sherpas and 2 cooks, 4 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners Oxygen for climbing from 7000m (C4). Hope put total 10 men on top in 3 parties. Iranians may be better acclimatized because live and climb at higher altitude.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446210
Year 1976
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mohammad Jafar Assadi M - Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Army officer (Lieutenant) Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Behzadi M - Iran Climber Rezaieh, Iran Employee of Ministry of Agriculture Details Other expeditions
Ghasem Dadfarmay M - Iran Exp Manager Tehran, Iran Works in transport section, government sugar company Details Other expeditions
Jalal Foroozan M - Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Proprietor of stationary shop Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Gorter M 1908 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Professional photographer hired by Iranians to photograph exped Details Other expeditions
Yosef Hendi M - Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Non-commissioned officer in the army (Master Sgt) Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Khakbiz M - Iran Commander-in-Chief Tehran, Iran Army officer (Brigadier General) Details Other expeditions
Ali Mohamadpour M - Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Staff member, mining company Details Other expeditions
Mokhtar Mehdizadeh M - Iran Deputy Leader Tehran, Iran Printer Details Other expeditions
Masanao Iijima M - Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Journalist (Shinano Mainichi) Details Other expeditions
Jun Kageyama M 1947 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tsuyoshi Kazama M - Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Kimura M - Japan Manager Nagoya, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Rye Shimada M - Japan Climber Suwa, Nagano, Japan President, ski shop Details Other expeditions
Kimio Shimiju M 1948 Japan Exp Doctor Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Shinshu University doctor Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Shimizu M - Japan Climber Suwa, Nagano, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Noriaki Soga M 1942 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Employee of ski shop Details Other expeditions
Nobuyoshi Tamura M - Japan Climbing Leader Nagano, Japan Telegraph officer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA76301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 51:239 (1977) -
MANA76301 MM - - - 53:11 (Jan 1977) -
MANA76301 IWA - - - 55:149 (1977) -
MANA76301 IWA - - - 55:33-34 (1977) -
MANA76301 - Iran-Japan Friendship Expedition Friendship Going Beyond Manaslu Shinano, Tokyo - jN101