Manaslu | 1973 NE Face

A Spain expedition to Manaslu in 1973 via NE Face, led by Jaime Garcia Orts. Summit reached on 30th September 1973. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2339
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA73301
Peak ID MANA
Year 1973
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jaime Garcia Orts
Sponsor Spanish Expedition to Manaslu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1973-09-20
Summit Date 1973-09-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6050m due to avalanches
High Point (m) 6050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown True
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4250m),C1(22/09,5100m),C2(27/09,5600m),xxx(30/09,6050m)
Route Notes Rivas - 20 Oct 73 1st helicopter flight ex-Samagaon, 11,500 ft 3 avalanches hit C2 between 10-13 Oct. Stayed 14 days in C2 and in this 6m of snow fell. Avalanches destroyed first C2 and on last day 2nd C2 30m higher and stayed 3 days more in C2. 1st C2 destroyed while members out of camp in biv after 29 Sept 14 days new snow non-stop 13 Oct the 6 members fell but no serious injury. Had decided to descend and while starting avalanche came (every 10 mins) and swept all men down several meters some (Sherpas) (100m). Reached base safely and waited for good weather. 15 Oct went up to bring down gear. 13 Oct decided not possible; too much new snow, technical problems, avalanche all time down very dangerous to keep trying. Wish to return Spring 1975 by same route. From technical point of view very interesting. Left equipment at C1 also destroyed by avalanche probably same day, 13th; no one there at time. All members Ok. Post-monsoon very improbable to reach 8000m. If had not left mountain "we would have died." C2 all destroyed when went up to bring it down. Letter from Expedition - 18 Oct 73 Weather was always very bad, snowing without stop. We were obliged to go down from C2 and C1 to the BC. Fortunately because big avalanches have partially destroyed C2 and covered C1. Everybody members and Sherpas are ok. From today until 18 Oct we shall tried to go up, if weather is good or to go down to Samagaon if the weather conditions do not permit this possibility. Letter from Expedition We arrive to BC on 20 Sep 4300m 22 Sep - have the way, and back (BC Camp, C1) Arrazola, Marquez, Mendoz, Diez Establishment C1 (5100m) - Soria, Rivas, Blazquez + 5 Sherpas 23 Sep - C2 establishment - Soria, Rivas, Blazguez & 5 Sherpas 24 Sep - a provision C2 - Durand, Repiso 29 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Diez, Mendoz, Blazguez 30 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Arias, Garcia Orts 30 Sep - Make way to C3 (until 6050m) - Rivas, Soria, Lopez, Rodrigo, Durand Stay in C1 till 4 October: Garcia Orts, Arrazola, Leader This people go down to BC 4 October because of danger of avalanches. Stay in C2 till 9 October - Soria, Repiso, Durand, Rivas, Lopez, Blazguez and 6 Sherpas. On 9 October big avalanche over C2; all members and Sherpas of C2 go down to BC. 10 October everybody on BC. It has snowed until today, from 29 Sept without stop; avalanches everywhere; very bad conditions of the mountain. Letter from Expedition - 4 Oct 1973 In the last 8 days we have to push to C1 and near totally C2 (5600m). Tomorrow we shall tried to begun to shift C3 at 6300m. Last 3 days was snowing a lot and was lot possible to do any work. Many avalanches even between C1 and BC but today weather is better. Letter from M. Arrazola - 28 Sept 1973 After 13 days crossing the valleys of the Buri Gandaki. We have arrived the BC. He had no problems and all people of the expedition, Sherpas and porters okay. We go to put C1 at 4900m and probably 2 days after C2 at 5600m. Weather until now is not so bad. From the BC we see the top of the Manaslu. Mrs Arrazola - 7 Sept 73 Left 9:30 am today except leader and doctor who left 4:30 pm for Trisuli where they leave tomorrow am. Dr. Arrozola - 2 Sept 73 6th Thurs leave KTM by road to Trisuli; leave Trisuli 7th & 12-13 days to BC. 5 high camps; summit 15-20 Oct.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445099
Year 1973
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jaime Garcia Orts M 1932 Spain Leader Madrid, Spain Tailor Details Other expeditions
Salvador Rivas Martinez M 1935 Spain Climbing Leader Madrid, Spain Professor of botany, University of Madrid Details Other expeditions
Mariano Arrazola Silio M 1922 Spain Exp Doctor San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Alfonso Arias Pacheco M 1934 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Factory owner Details Other expeditions
Luis Bernardo Durand M 1945 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Airlines office trainee (Iberian Airlines) Details Other expeditions
Gerardo Blazquez Garcia M 1944 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain House painter Details Other expeditions
Pedro Diez Miguel M 1949 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Employee in business office Details Other expeditions
Jeronimo Lopez Martinez M 1951 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Engineering student (University of Madrid) Details Other expeditions
Antonio Marquez Rascon M 1942 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Salesman for refrigeration equipment Details Other expeditions
Luis Mendez Rodrigo M 1930 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Electrical appliance repairman Details Other expeditions
Carlos Munos Repiso M 1941 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Attorney Details Other expeditions
Carlos Soria Fontan M 1939 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Upholsterer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA73301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 48:207 (1974) -
MANA73301 HJ - - - 33:200 (1973-74) -
MANA73301 MM - - - 31:9 (Jan 1974) -
MANA73301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420704/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt - - -
MANA73301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ - - -