Manaslu | 1972 NE Face

A S Korea expedition to Manaslu in 1972 via NE Face, led by Kim Jung-Sup. Summit reached on 27th March 1972. 22 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2365
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA72101
Peak ID MANA
Year 1972
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Kim Jung-Sup
Sponsor Second Korean Manaslu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Japan
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-03-11
Summit Date 1972-03-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal avalanche at C3
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 5
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 10
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/03,4300m),C1(14/03,5200m),C2(22/03,5850m),C3(27/03,6500m),xxx(27/03,6500m)
Route Notes Hawley Reuters Dispatch - 14 Apr 72 Three persons, one Korean and two Sherpas, survived huge avalanche that completely destroyed Koreans C3 (6500m) on Manaslu early morning of April 10. Korean is Kim Yae-Sup who actually survived five avalanches and gale force winds that terrible morning and who briefly recounted his horror to Reuter's this morning in Shanta Bhawan Hospital here while nurses gently bathed in warm water his badly frostbitten feet. He was brought to Kathmandu ex-basecamp by helicopter this morning with the expedition leader's eldest brother Kim Jung-Sup and the expedition's reporter Yun Byung-Hae who were not at C3. The avalanche took the lives of four Koreans, one Japanese and ten Sherpas. One Korean dead was climbing leader Kim Ho-Sup who had vowed to conquer Manaslu this time and recover the body of another brother Kim Ki-Sup who died last spring at 7600m on the same side of Manaslu from fierce winds that swept him off his feet. Other dead are Oh Sae-Keun, Song Joon-Haeng, Park Chang-Hee, Japanese photographer Kazunari Yasuhisha, nine high-altitude Sherpa porters and one Sherpa cook. Kim Yae-Sup said he woke about midnight that fatal night to make some hot water and to prepare for an early climbing start. Two Sherpas commented to him that there had been too much snowfall. They were worried about snow conditions on the mountain-side. At about 3:15 am, Kim heard the terrible noise of the huge avalanche and woke two members in the same tent and they tried to get outside, but the avalanche struck first and they were carried 800m downwards from C3 (at 6500m) with three shattering bounces before on the 4th bound they stopped moving. Both Kim's companions were still alive and spoke to him: Park said whole the midsection of his torso was crushed and his spine broken; Yasuhisha told Kim his left rib and right shoulder were broken. Then another avalanche struck them, burying Kim's two friends and carrying him 300m further downwards. Three more avalanches hit Kim, but he survived with frostbitten feet and fingers; possible internal injuries not yet known. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me," Kim said this morning in the hospital bed. Kim's family are Christians. There were four other tents in C3. In one were three Koreans, Kim Ho-Sup, Oh Sae-Keun and Song Joon-Haeng and two other tents held ten Sherpas. All perished in this disaster. The expedition is not continuing. Four surviving Koreans are still in the mountains and will return with recoverable baggage. Kim Yae-Sup - 14 April 72 Very big snow and ice avalanche destroyed 5 tents and 1 kitchen at C3 at 6500m at 3:15 am 10 April. 2 Sherpas say too much snow. Japanese and Park Chang-Hee in same tent and he woke them up and tried and go outside. Avalanche carried them 800m down in 3 bounces and on 4th stopped. Japanese says right shoulder and left rib broken; Park said whole body cut and spine broken. At C3 2 Sherpas clearing snow from tent and now alive. 9 Sherpas and cook in 3 tents at C3 and they died. Other members in C3 in another tent. Another avalanche came and covered his 2 companions and he was swept 300m more down. Had altogether 5 avalanches and very strong winds. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me." Frostbitten fingers and feet, extent of injuries not known. At Blue Star: Yun and leader. They were not at C3; climbing now ended. Dead members: 1) Kim Ho-Sup 2) Oh Sae-Keun 3) Song Jong-Haen 4) Park Chung-Hee 5) Kazunari Yasuhisha (Japan) Kim Ho-Sup - 10 Feb 1972 12 members altogether. 5 arrive KTM today. 1 to NDH for prepare gas. All arrive 20th except leader Kim Jung-Sup (his elder brother) who will come later because very busy businessman but comes for brother's sake. Expedition leaves KTM 25 Feb by truck to Trisuli Bazar. Caravan and climbing route (NE) same as last year. East side technically no trouble but last year "swimming in snow" and terrible wind driving snow into face - "man's power nothing against terrible wind." Reach base 10 March. I know already where crevasse and icefalls are bad already fixed rope up to 7600m so by mid-April 1st attack party will be sent up. 5 camps with highest at 7700m or 7800m (100 or 200m higher then last year, so summit attempt far their easier). If succeed bring back younger brother's body and brought special box to return him to Korea for burial; also to bring body down, brought snow boat. 3 brothers and 1 brother-in-law in this expedition 10 Sherpas 10 other porters up to C2 Kim Ho-Sup's son born one day before reached Churen East Peak summit. Names of dead Sherpas (as provided by Pemba Tshering Sherpa, a HA-porter on the expedition): Sirdar: Pemba Rinji from Jorsale (aka Lama Ngawang Chultim) Second Sirdar: Rinji Wangel Sherpa from Phaplu, Solu Climbing Sherpa: Ang Tendi from Thami From Rising Nepal - April 15, 1972 "The ten Sherpas who met with their tragic fate were Sardar Pemba Rinji, second Sardar Rinji Wangel, 28-years old Ang Mingma, 37-years old Angmingma, Andrita, Pasang Nima, Angtendi Ang Dawa, Phurba Tenzing, Gyalze and Wangel Kook."
Accidents 5 members and 10 Sherpas killed by avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Unknown, if any
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444546
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

22 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jung-Sup Kim M 1934 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea President, O-Yang Iron & Steel Co., Seoul Details Other expeditions
Ho-Sup Kim M 1944 S Korea Climbing Leader Seoul, S Korea Directing Manager, O-Yang Iron & Steel Co., Seoul Details Other expeditions
Choung-Kil Sue M 1938 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Directing Manager, O-Yang Iron & Steel Co., Seoul Details Other expeditions
Shin-Whoe Koo M 1941 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Chief salesman for East Travelers Co. (travel agency) Details Other expeditions
Suk-Mo Choi M 1937 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Chief shorthand stenographer, Korean National Assembly, Seoul Details Other expeditions
Joon-Haeng Song M 1941 S Korea Climber - Official of Shin Han Bus Co., Pusan Details Other expeditions
Eung-Mo Yun M 1942 S Korea Climber - Chief architect, Dong Yang Iron & Steel Co., Seoul Details Other expeditions
Sae-Keun Oh M 1945 S Korea Climber - Senior at Cho Sun University, Kwangju city Details Other expeditions
Yae-Sup Kim M 1951 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Kyung Gi College, Seoul Details Other expeditions
Chang-Hee Park M 1933 S Korea Photographer - Director, Studio Ace of Korea (film-makers), Seoul Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Yasuhisa M 1938 Japan Photographer Tokyo, Japan Professional photographer Details Other expeditions
Byung-Hae Yun M 1939 S Korea Journalist Seoul, S Korea Staff member, Chosun Ilbo, Seoul (daily newspaper) Details Other expeditions
Pemba Rinji (Nawang Chultim) Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Jorsale, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Rinsing Ongyal (Rinji Wangel) Sherpa M 1938 Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tendi (Ang Dawa) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Mingma Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Ang Mingma Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Gyalze Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions
Wangel Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Cook Phaplu, Solukhumbu (?) - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA72101 AAJ - - - 47:484 (1973) -
MANA72101 MM - - - 21:7 (May 1972) -
MANA72101 MM - - - 22:9 (Jul 1972) -
MANA72101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Manaslu - 62:38-41 (Jul 1978) -
MANA72101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348401/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-East-Face - - -