Manaslu | 1971 NE Face

A S Korea expedition to Manaslu in 1971 via NE Face, led by Kim Ho-Sup. Summit reached on 4th May 1971. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2962
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA71102
Peak ID MANA
Year 1971
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Kim Ho-Sup
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Japan
Approach Trisuli->Arughat->BC
Basecamp Date 1971-03-11
Summit Date 1971-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 54
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to high winds and fatal fall on summit attempt
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,4600m),C1(31/03,5300m),C2,C3(6700m),C4(17/04,7000m),C5(04/05,7600m),xxx(04/05,7600m)
Route Notes Kim Ho-Sup - May 14, 1971 Others arrive KTM after 4-5 days. Kim came last midnight. May 4 - 2 Kim brothers and 3 Sherpas reached C5 site 7600m at 4:30 pm. Morning very good weather, but late afternoon strong wind started, strongest wind he ever knew. Sky clear but heavy snow powder blown by wind. After making camp place and pitching 1 tent. From there to summit easy snow slope. So plan next morning 2 brothers and 1 Sherpa to summit. Kim Ki-Sup took off crampon and put ice axe in snow. Very cold and high and wanted to make hot water, but strong wind blew him off his feet and he fell 30m down snow slope and into 10-15m crevasse. Inside snow crevasse many iceblocks and maybe banged head. Leader brother reached him quickly, but already dead and body left in crevasse. Next year will bring body out. Not then because Kim Ho-Sup and 3 Sherpas not strong and high altitude very bad conditions. Dead man told Sherpas he would reach summit or die. At 11:00 pm May 4 survivors returned to C4; could not stay in wind at C5. Kim Ki-Sup made 3 summit bids: 1) 20th April he and 1 Sherpa at 8 pm started from C4 at 7000m and at 1:45 am turned back because very cold and deep snow where usually crampon walking possible. 2) 1 May he started again from C3 at 6700m to stay night at C4 and on to summit. He and Kim In-Sik and 5 Sherpas turned back because camp covered snow - sky blue but heavy snow coming. 3) On May 5 surviving brother Kim Ho-Sup wanted try for summit with one Sherpa, but C4 half-covered with snow and still strong wind, so abandoned climb. Kim Ho-Sup plans next year expedition to Manaslu maybe same route (already much fixed rope) if ice conditions same. Will try for summit and bring brother's body down for cremation. Strong wind like pistol shots. Miss Kim reached C3. Kim Ki-Sup - March 7, 1971 Kim Ki-Sup, Kim In-Suk, Miss Kim Jung-Gee and Lee Jong-Gee leave KTM tomorrow as advance party with half of expedition's baggage. Will proceed to establish base and other camps. 3 other Koreans and Yasuhisha stay in KTM awaiting arrival of other half their baggage from Dacca. Kim Ho-Sup - March 1, 1971 Hope to rendezvous with Japanese Manaslu on summit. Chances poor, but would like both expeditions to have walkie-talkies with which can communicate with each other at some points on mountain. Kim Ki-Sup - Feb 13, 1971 2 here now, 4 others arrive 20th Feb. Yashuhisa (photographer only) will help but not [climbing] member. Route via NE Face, same route as 1956 Japanese expedition. Leave KTM 1 March, go to Trisuli by truck, via Arughat (same as 1970 Peak 29 route). Arrive base mid-March, return to KTM by same route. Summit attempt about mid-April. Expect 5 higher camps necessary. Lhotse Shar team may not come. Manaslu more difficult then Churen. Last pitch very steep and peak higher. Korean Churen 1970 expedition from last camp to summit took 16 hours. Is possible to reach summit from that point. Sure his expedition reached summit of Churen. Japanese who made doubting statement would not meet Kim and brother when he was in Japan. Kim ready to go to Churen summit with doubting Japanese who probably can't reach himself and [thus] thinks others can't.
Accidents Kim Ki-Sup killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444217
Year 1971
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ho-Sup Kim M 1944 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Directing manager, O-Yang Iron & Steel Co (Seoul) Details Other expeditions
Ki-Sup Kim M 1946 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Director, O-Yang Iron and Steel Industry Co. Ltd Details Other expeditions
In-Suk Kim M - S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Journalism student, Kyunghi University Details Other expeditions
Yee-Suk Han M 1944 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Graduating this Feb in engineering from Yeunse Univ Details Other expeditions
Chang-Don Choi M - S Korea Climber Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Student, Junnam University, Junnam Province Details Other expeditions
Jung-Sim Kim F - S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Jung-Gee Lee M - S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Correspondent, Seoul Daily Newspaper Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Yasuhisa M 1938 Japan Photographer Tokyo, Japan Professional photographer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA71102 AAJ - - - 46:184 (1972) -
MANA71102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218403/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Attempt - - -