Manaslu | 2022 NE Face

A Spain expedition to Manaslu in 2022 via NE Face, led by Alex Txikon. Summit reached on 6th January 2023. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11011
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA22401
Peak ID MANA
Year 2022
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Alex Txikon
Sponsor Seven Summit Treks (SST) Manaslu Expedition Winter 2022-2023
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach By heli to lower BC
Basecamp Date 2022-12-23
Summit Date 2023-01-06
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 14
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2023-01-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1700
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 6
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites LBC(23/12,3700m),BC(25/12,4850m),C1(26/12,5800m),C2(04/01,6250m),C3(05/01,6950m),TrueSmt(06/01)
Route Notes Approach: Heli to BC. LBC 23/12 3700m BC 25/12 4850m (Simone Moro arrived at 01/01) C1 26/12 5800m C2 04/01 6250m C3 05/01 6950m – little higher than normal C3 Smt 06/01 by Tenjen Sherpa (Lama), Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (Magpa), Mingtemba Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tashi Sherpa (Maila), Gyalu Sherpa and Alex Txikon at 9:30 am. When Txikon arrived with his team and some trekkers, they set up interim BC between Samagaon and the regular Manaslu BC at 3700m where they spent two nights. When the trekkers left, Txikon and the Sherpa team moved to BC at 4850m on 25/12 and the following day they ascended to C1 at 5800m. After they had set up camp, they carried some gear up to 6100m and descended again to C1 to sleep. Chhepal and Txikon shared a tent while the other four members of the team shared another one. At about 3:45 am on 27/12 the wind blew so hard that Tixkon’s and Chhepal’s tent nearly got ripped, so the pair moved in with the others. They spent a horrible night up there and at 10:30 am the following day, the whole team descended to BC in about 1.5 hours. They spent two nights at the higher BC and descended to the lower BC at 3700m on 29/12 where they stayed until 01/01/23 when Simone Moro arrived. On 04/01 at 7 am Chhepal, Moro and Txikon ascended to C1 in 3 hrs 50 mins. They had a short rest at C1 and continued to their C2 which they established inside a big crevasse at 6250m. During the ascent from C1 to C2, Moro turned back as he had an upset stomach. He descended to BC the same day and left by helicopter on 06/01, the minute when they heard that the team had summited. Chhepal and Txikon slept at 6250m, while the rest of the team slept at 6400m. On 05/01 Chhepal and Txikon left their C2 at 10 am and reached C3 at 3 pm where they met the rest of the team. They went to sleep at 7 pm on 05/01 and departed from C3 for their summit push between 10:45 pm and 11.15 pm. They must have reached C4 at 7400m at around 4 am as the cook who was at BC said he saw the last head torch at around 4:15 am. They continued to the summit, but it was extremely windy. When they departed from C3 it was about -40 degrees; however, on the way to C4 Txikon, who wore a downsuit and an orange jacket, had to take off the jacket as he was too hot. After C4 the wind was very strong (around 45km/h) and continued to blow all the way to the summit. The only part the team was protected from the wind was just below the summit ridge, as there was a small dip which gave them some shelter. At around 6:30 am the weather improved a bit. Once they had reached the false summit, they followed the line of Mingma Gyalje. They found the black and yellow rope that Mingma G fixed this autumn. They cut a red rope that was already fixed and then they fixed the rest with 60m. They reached the summit in the following order: Mingtemba Tenjing Pasang Nurbu Pemba Tashi Alex Txikon Chhepal Gyalu The team spent about three minutes on the summit as it was too windy to linger around for longer. Txikon was very scared of getting blown off the summit by the wind. They descended to BC with a 10-minute-stop at C3 where they arrived at 6 pm. The total ascent time from BC to the summit was around 60 hours. “At 7800m I nearly died of dehydration. I could not drink as the water was frozen inside our bottles that were inside our downsuits. We broke the bottles with our crampons and drank a bit. I subsequently used ice from the floor and melted it in my mouth. From C4 to the summit there was no fixed rope and I felt quite exposed I was so tired. It did not get much better on the descent. I was so exhausted. I could not walk more than 60 steps on the way down. After I was able to drink and had some gel, I felt better.” Accident: During the descent, Pemba Tashi (Maila) took a 400m fall. The young (and apparently very strong) Sherpa slipped on an icy slope while walking ahead of him at roughly 7200m. Txikon was with Makpa [Gyalu] and Mingtemba and they could only stare at how he fell and fell, and the trail he left behind in the snow, and how he jumped [was airborne] at some points. Pemba Tashi remained still for 15 minutes and bled quite a lot. Somehow, Tashi managed to resume the descent under his own steam and made his way to C1 where we met him again. “Pemba Tashi is extremely strong, but he was very sad as he was so close to dying,” Txikkon said. On 07/01, the team was picked up by helicopter. Pemba Tashi was taken to hospital but did not have much injuries. He was fine. From Explorer’s Web 10/01/2023: We used the [Rolwaling] traverse,” Txikon said. “On the final ridge, there was a red rope, very tight. That was the rope fixed this year [fall 2022], which we used to fix our own white rope. There are 8-10m of rope on a sharp section of the ridge, then you mount it in order to change to the other side of the mountain. There, the red rope continued until a rock another 10m beyond. From that point, you go down a little, below a rocky band, and then climb up 7-8m.” https://explorersweb.com/alex-txikon-manaslu-was-more-dangerous-than-i-expected/ Team left BC on 07/01 by helicopter. Fixed rope: To C1 around 100m, plus 600m in exposed sections between C1 and C2; between C3 and C4 around 900m; from C4 to summit 100m. Oxygen: Txikon did not use O2 Ttaken and used from C3 to summit and to C3 by the Sherpas; but the regulators exploded and Chhepal’s mask was not working at all. He shared it with the other Sherpas.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463413
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jon Alexander (Alex) Chicon Navarez M 1981 Spain Leader Lemona, Vizcaya, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Eneko Garamendi Meabe M 1971 Spain Base Camp Cook - Chef Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Ponteranica, Bergamo, Italy Alpinist/pilot Details Other expeditions
Joseba Mirena Undurraga Bidasolo M 1963 Spain BC Support - - Details Other expeditions
Chhepal Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-2, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Gyalu Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Patle-2, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Ming Temba Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tashi Sherpa M 2000 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing (Tenzen) Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA22401 - - https://mteveresttoday.com/manaslu-8163-m-winter-climb-begins/ - - -
MANA22401 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/alex-txikon-six-sherpas-make-historic-manaslu-winter-climb - - -
MANA22401 - - https://explorersweb.com/alex-txikon-and-nepali-team-summit-winter-manaslu/ - - -
MANA22401 - - https://mteveresttoday.com/alex-txikon-manaslu-was-so-dangerous/ - - -
MANA22401 - - https://mteveresttoday.com/what-does-six-nepalese-sherpa-says-who-climbed-manaslu-in-winter/ - - -
MANA22401 - - https://explorersweb.com/alex-txikon-manaslu-was-more-dangerous-than-i-expected/ - - -