Manaslu | 2019 NE Face

A Italy expedition to Manaslu in 2019 via NE Face, led by Francois Cazzanelli. Summit reached on 26th September 2019. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10458
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA19311
Peak ID MANA
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Francois Cazzanelli
Sponsor Italian Manaslu & Panpoche 1 Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach Besisahar->Larkya La->Samagaon
Basecamp Date 2019-09-14
Summit Date 2019-09-26
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 12
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2019-09-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Panpoche 1 (PAN1-193-02)
Campsites BC(14/09,4900m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(20/09,6780m),Smt(26/09)
Route Notes Manaslu: BC 14/09 4900m C1 None C2 15/09 6300m C3 20/09 6780m C4 None Smt 26/09 by all members. Oxygen: not taken not used. Left Manaslu BC on 29 Sept to Samagaon for Panpoche 1. Expedition schedule: Team acclimatized on Panpoche 1, intending the WNW Ridge to Peak 6567m, north subpeak to Panpoche 1, approaching it from a valley SW of the ridge rooting in the valley between Samagaon and Samdo (after 1 hr walk from Samagaon). On 10 Sept made a deposit at 5100m afoot of the ridge first difficulty, the first pillar; this after reaching the col nearby below and climbing next a short-easy buttress unroped. Then team switched to Manaslu normal route. Team arrived at Manaslu BC on Sept 14. The day after, went up to sleep at C2. The day after back to BC. Had a rest from 16 to 18 of Sept. 19 Sept: team went back to sleep at C2. 20 Sept: team went up to sleep at C3. 21 Sept: team back to BC. Had a new rest period. 25 Sept: Emrik, Marco and Francesco went up to sleep at C3. 26 Sept: Emrik, Marco and Francesco started from C3 at midnight. Marco summited with Francois at 10 am. Emrik and Francesco summited with Andreas at noon. Francois was back to BC at 2:45 pm, Marco at 5:30 pm, Andreas at 6:30 pm, Francesco and Emrik at 9:30 pm. Speed ascent details for Francois and Andreas: Francois and Andreas planned for a 16-17 hour ascent from BC to top. They started the chronometer at the Chinese grave (a stone fixed point at about 5000m amid of the base camp) at 9 pm on 25 Sept. Duet reached C3 at 1:15 am, in a 4:15 trip, having 1 hour advance in their schedule. Had a 15 min pause there. Then duet reached C4 at 5:30 am, in a 4 hr trip. Some fresh snow had recovered the tracks due to strong winds, so that they needed to break the trail again and slow down. Lost 1:30 in their schedule in that section. From C4 duet split. Francois reaching the top at 10 am with Marco. Francois could keep a good pace in that last section, walking 50 steps between each pause. They stayed 30 min to make pictures, then Francois started his descent reaching BC at about 2:45 pm, in a 17:43 round trip from BC. Francois changed from his big shoes which hurt his feet to lighter ones at C2, however being astonished to have walked down so fast. Andreas Steindl reached the top at noon with Francesco and Emrik. Reached BC at 6:30 pm, in a 21:30 round trip. At first team intended a repeat of the Kukuczka/Hajzer route, but snow conditions made it just too dangerous for an attempt. Left BC for Samagaon on 29 Sept. From there, were back to Panpoche 1. High point on (PAN1): 4 Oct at 5900m on WNW Ridge of Peak 6567m (north of PAN1) by 5 members. Route: WNW Ridge of Peak 6567m to NNE Ridge of Panpoche 1. Climb abandoned on Panpoche 1: 4 October in the evening due to weather forecast, shorter deadline. 3 Oct: from Samagaon, team reached back to their deposit at 5100m. Here had the surprise to find the gear which had been hung, whereas the one left on ground was covered below a 40 cms hard snow layer. Ropes and harnesses previously left were all wet so needed a 1 hr to be ready! Back to the deposit time the previous month, the pillar was dry, which wasn't anymore the case now. Group split into 2 ropes: Marco and Francois on 1 rope, other 3 on the other rope. Both climbed the first pillar (200m, 4 pitches/M4/left 2 pitons in a hard pitch), one team by the right (Marco and Francois), the other one by the left; then the ridge got flat, then made a slight descent (20/30m); in a col at 5300m, they put their tents. 4 Oct: Attacked the day with a M4 pitch, then had a rock pillar climbed in a 40/50m pitch. From there started a long flat ridge covered with much snow! They traversed it all, twice with a little section of descent. Then faced a new buttress on the ridge. Here had some mixed ground (M4+), where they abandoned a blocked friend, then some rock (4). Stopped at 5 pm at 5900m, where the ridge gets sharper, a 100m before a snowy shoulder, separated by 2 rock towers to cross to be the crux. Went down a 100m on the ridge (5800m) where they dug space in a snow slope to put 2 tents. Taking the latest weather forecast, it had changed from 4 to 3 days of good weather, in fact a new perturbation coming on 6 Oct, when they had planned for their descent day. Took decision that evening to cancel the attempt. 5 Oct: Begun the descent by the south face of the ridge. Went down a new 100m on the ridge until c5700m, from there starting to equip abseils on the south face. 9 belays were equipped; from there reached and could down-climb a couloir until almost reaching the moraine. At that stage, followed right side down-climbing a snowy shelf with their crampons, by which in a last 10th 60m abseil on piton they could reach the moraine. In total had equipped 600m of abseils with 10 belays (8 pitons, 1 block with rope sling around it, 1 snow bar). 3 fantastic days of mountaineering! Very small space for tents on that sharp ridge, sleeping roped to the mountain. Not technical ground, but serious enough to necessitate time. Length, with lots of flat or even descent sections. Found no gear remnants of some past attempts there. Had a lots of snow above 4500m during the actual attempt. Rock was very rotten, so snow consolidating it was in that sense an advantage, despite necessitating to break trail, sometimes up to the knees.
Accidents -
Achievement Speed ascent record of normal route by Francois Cazzanelli
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462392
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois (Franz) Cazzanelli M 1990 Italy Leader Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marco Camandona M 1970 Italy Climber Aosta, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Emrik Favre M 1988 Italy Climber Ayas, Aosta, Italy Ski instructor & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francesco Ratti M 1980 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andreas Stefan Steindl M 1989 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.