Manaslu | 2012 NE Face

A Canada expedition to Manaslu in 2012 via NE Face, led by Martin Boiteau. Summit reached on 28th September 2012. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7636
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA12311
Peak ID MANA
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Martin Boiteau
Sponsor Canada Manaslu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Arughat->Samagaon
Basecamp Date 2012-09-18
Summit Date 2012-09-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 24
Termination Date 2012-10-12
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to snow and glacier conditions, lack of equipment
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4800m),C1(23/09,5800m),C2(28/09,6400m),xxx(28/09,6600m)
Route Notes The team didn't use oxygen at all and was on its own to carry all its equipment (no Sherpa). The day of the avalanche (23rd of September), Martin and Phillipe who slept at C1 went up to C2 and helped for the rescue. After the avalanche both went back to the base camp with all other teams and waited a few days before starting again (many teams had left just after the avalanche, just a few commercial expedition remaining). The pair slept twice at C2 (28th of September for the first time, then 30th of September) and went back to BC the 1st of October. From this date, no more commercial expeditions were on the mountain after having summited, only amateur teams remaining. Then the glacier conditions went bad (already on their way down from C2 the 1st October, just 10 minutes after their departure an avalanche of ice blocks damaged the route), most of the ice bridges on the glacier had melted too much and crevasses were opened too wide (would have needed ladders to cross them, any gear that Sherpa from commercial expedition usually installed!), and there was snow every day (snow above the hips whilst tracing to C1!). After the 1st of October, the amateur teams joined together to try to equip the mountain, but struggled to set up at C1, with no team at all reaching C2. After 10 days of effort, most of the amateur teams had left one after another, so Martin and Philippe decided to abandon as well (the 10th October). David Smith stopped at the deposit camp (at 5600m) where he slept one night and left base camp the 23rd of September. He abandoned the expedition because of lack of strength and adaptation to altitude first, then the day of the avalanche he definitely decided to quit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Third Pole Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459336
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Philippe Blanchette Nagy M 1982 Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Martin Boiteau M 1970 Canada Leader Montreal, Quebec Rescue instructor Details Other expeditions
David Alan Smith M 1963 Canada Climber Edmonton, Alberta Warehouse storeman Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.