Manaslu | 2012 NE Face

A New Zealand expedition to Manaslu in 2012 via NE Face, led by Guy Cotter. Summit reached on 11th May 2012. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7603
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA12111
Peak ID MANA
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Guy Cotter
Sponsor Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2012
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2012-04-17
Summit Date 2012-05-11
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 4500
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04,4800m),C1(19/04,5600m),C2(09/05,6250m),C3(09/05,6900m),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes The six-member team arrived at the last place before BC, the village of Samagaon, on 10 April. But snow prevented any progress beyond; they were forced to stay there a week and got to BC only on the 17th. They moved up to C1 on the 19th, but again progress was halted by more snowfall and high avalanche danger. They returned to BC, moved up and down between BC and C1 three or four times and even descended to Samagaon. During this period, three members decided to leave. Todd Holt, Keith Kerr and Philip Shearman were running out of time and they felt that the bad weather wouldn't break soon. They left on 5 May. Another member, Lajos Kosztelny, had already departed with stomach trouble on 12 April, shortly after they had arrived in Samagaon. Finally the two remaining members, Baldry and Cotter, went back to BC from Samagaon on 6 May. On the 7th, they occupied C1 and made C2 on the 9th. On the 10th they established C3, and on the same day at 11 pm went for the top with Ang Phurba Sherpa. The three climbers were on the summit at 1:30 pm on 11 May, then returned to C3 at 9:30 pm. "It was a long day," Cotter observed. They were back in BC on the 12th. Baldry and Cotter had to use oxygen from C3 to their summit to C3 while Ang Phurba had used it from halfway above C3 to the summit and back to C3. The team's three Sherpas had fixed 4500m of rope all the way to the summit -- Cotter called it "the true summit." He asserted that this team was the first one ever to reach the true tummit: there were no signs of any fixed ropes to it. All previous teams had groups stopped at the rock wall of a false summit, a point which is actually only a few meters lower than the true one. Cotter said he knows of two members of another team went to true top also on 11 May. Cotter said "it was a great climb from where everyone else's ropes ended, to the true summit." Sherpas (True Smt): Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85 (10/8/2042), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X1, Manaslu X1 Sherpas (Fore-Smt): Mingma Dukpa Sherpa Dawa Temba Sherpa, Yaphu-9 Pemba Wangdi Sherpa, Yaphu-9 Phur Temba Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 2046/3/10 K. B. Thapa Magar, Magi, Okhaldhunga Tshering Dorje Sherpa, Chheskam Phurba Sherpa, Yaphu-9 [no fore-summit?]
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459196
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anthony Donald Baldry M 1962 Australia Climber Airle Beach, QLD, Australia Investor Details Other expeditions
Edmund Guy Cotter M 1962 New Zealand Leader Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide & CEO of adventure company Details Other expeditions
Todd Elman Holt M 1952 USA Climber Stillwater, Minnesota Engineer Details Other expeditions
Keith Graham Kerr M 1952 UK Climber Hong Kong Realtor Details Other expeditions
Lajos Valter (Louis) Kosztelny M 1955 Australia Climber Maroubra, NSW, Australia Financier Details Other expeditions
Philip Lister Shearman M 1972 Australia Climber Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Ecologist Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Dukpa Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Temba Sherpa M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Ongdi Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Phur Temba Sherpa M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Kul Bahadur Thapa Magar M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Tshering Dorje (Tshiring Dorje) Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Mamerku, Chheskam, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MANA12111 - - http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Manaslu_Dispatch2012/ - - -