Manaslu | 2009 NE Face

A Italy expedition to Manaslu in 2009 via NE Face, led by Mario Merelli. Summit reached on 19th May 2009. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6496
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA09113
Peak ID MANA
Year 2009
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Mario Merelli
Sponsor Italian Manaslu Expedition 2009
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2009-04-04
Summit Date 2009-05-19
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 45
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2009-04-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 250
Total Members 10
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4890m),C1(12/04,5729m),C2(20/04,6308m),C3(25/04,6984m),C4(18/05,7430m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes On 27 April at 2:00 am, eight members and one Sherpa set out for the summit from C3 but none of them reached the top. They were Guiseppe Antonelli, Tiziano Bertoncini, Simone Botta, Davide Gens, Mario Merelli, Mario Panzeri, Marco Rusconi and Marco Zaffaroni, plus Tshering Jangbu. Merelli, Panzeri and Zaffaroni reached the team's highest point on this summit bid at 7900m. Strong winds sent them down to C2 for the night. Rusconi reached 7800m and also went down to C2. Botta, Bertoncini and Gens turned back at 7500m, because of the wind. In his descent, Gens slipped on the ice just above C4, and had it not been for an old broken tent that he grabbed onto, he would have fallen to his death. Gens and Botta slept in C3, Bertonicini went down to C2 to sleep. Most of them went down to BC on 29th. Zaffaroni's toes, which had been frostbitten on an earlier climb, were getting very cold, and Rusconi was worried that he might be getting altitude sickness. Rusconi's problem actually was that he was severely dehydrated with very low potassium levels and was put on intravenous fluids for a few hours in C2, to which he had been rescued from close to a Spanish team's C3 by his teammates, Nick Rice, the independent American, and Catalina Quesada, a Spanish team member. The Italians summit bid had been defeated by fierce 100 km/hr winds; it was impossible for them to go higher. The route had been covered with deep snow with little fixed rope. When the wind's considerable strength was added to their problems, that was the end of the summit attempt for them that day and for all except Panzeri the end of their climb. All the Italians except Panzeri left BC on the 30th. Panzeri did not have the time constraint that the others did, and he still wanted to go to the summit. So did the independent American, Nick Rice, who was on the same permit as the Italians and climbed with them part of the time. Panzeri and Rice now teamed up to make another summit bid together. Panzeri left C3 with Rice in their final summit bid on 18 May, and they established C4 at 7430m At 1:30 am of 19 May they moved up from C4; Panzeri reached the summit at 10:00 am and Rice got there at 11:30 am. Panzeri returned to C4 at 2:00 pm and continued down to BC at 6:30 pm. (Rice stopped in C4 for the night). Other non-summiting members: Antonelli abandoned the summit attempt on 27 April at C3. The climb had become very steep; he had a Sherpa with him, his personal Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, the only Sherpa above BC with this expedition, but he now had a serious problem breathing. Nick Rice wrote on an email on 7 July, "when we found him wandering below C3 alone" (his Sherpa, Tshering Jangbu, had gone all the way down to C2 without him, knowing he was sick, leaving him without a down jacket or water/food -- he had no backpack). "We heard yelling from where we were camped and Lolo (Spanish team member Manuel Gonzalez), Lina (Ms Catalina Quesada) and I went onto the snowfield, slightly up from where the Spanish made their camp 3 (6800m) and helped Antonelli down to their tents, where we offered him water and food and where the Spanish radioed down to thier doctor Miguel (Lopez) in base camp for advice. The doctor recommended an 8 mg injection of Dexamethasone cogitative and knew where and who he was, so clearly didn't have cerebral edema), which Lolo gave him, then Lolo and Lina helped Guiseppe (Antonelli) down to C2. He was put on Japanese oxygen, then he died in my tent in C2 on 28 April. His body was brought to Kathmandu and will be sent to his family in Italy. The Kathmandu autopsy report said that the cause of his death was chronic heart disease. Magliano got to 6900-7000m on 27 April, decided to quit, and left BC by helicopter on 28 or 29 April. Manni climbed to C1 once, to a point between BC and C1 once, developed a knee problem, and left on 17 or 18 April in a helicopter. Sherpa: Tshering Jangbu Sherpa, 1/8/77 (17/4/2034), Rakshi Kharka, Lokhim-9, Solu, Lhotse X2 (in spring 2008 with Antonelli to Lhotse's summit), Everest X2, Xixabangma X1
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458060
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giuseppe Antonelli M 1970 Italy Climber Tato, Trento, Italy Driver Details Other expeditions
Tiziano Bertoncini M 1980 Italy Climber Borgosesia, Vercelli, Italy Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Simone Botta M 1975 Italy Climber Varallo Sesia, Vercelli, Italy Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Davide Gens M 1970 Italy Climber Quarona, Vercelli, Italy Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Alberto Magliano M 1945 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Managing director of tourism business Details Other expeditions
Roberto Manni M 1963 Italy Climber Madonna di Campiglio, Trento, Italy Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Gian Mario Merelli M 1962 Italy Leader Lizzola, Bergamo, Italy Hotel owner Details Other expeditions
Mario Luciano Panzeri M 1964 Italy Climber Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Rock driller Details Other expeditions
Marco Rusconi M 1964 Italy Climber Valmadrera, Lecco, Italy Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Marco Enrico Zaffaroni M 1962 Italy Climber Cesate, Milano, Italy Artisan Details Other expeditions
Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Rakshikharka, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.