Manaslu | 2009 NE Face

A Spain expedition to Manaslu in 2009 via NE Face, led by Carlos Pauner. Summit reached on 28th April 2009. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6485
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA09102
Peak ID MANA
Year 2009
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Carlos Pauner
Sponsor Spanish Manaslu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2009-04-05
Summit Date 2009-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 38
Termination Date 2009-05-13
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8110m due to wind, deep snow, fatigue and Perez frostbite
High Point (m) 8110
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,4850m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7100m),xxx(28/04,8110m)
Route Notes "In all the years I've come to climb in Nepal, I've never seen so much snowfall," said Pauner on 14 May. "This mountain is for April." Camps 2 and 3 must have disappeared by now under the fresh snowfall, he believes; he left BC by helicopter on the 13th, and BC had gotten two meters of snow. Their BC had been covered by an avalanche on 8 May. "We were very lucky" not to have been hurt by it. The three-member team established C2 at 6400m on 20 April. The crevasses and avalanching and steepness of the route had by now frightened Sanmartin; the next day he left the expedition and went home. Pauner, Perez and Pemba Dorje Sherpa made their bid for the summit from C3 on 28 April together with Italians led by Mario Merelli. They all started up at 2:00 am and made slow progress because there were no fixed ropes in place; it was already 9:00 am when they reached the final col, which was covered by hard green ice. Perez turned back 100m above the col because he thought it was getting too late for a summit success. He descended to C3 and waited there for Pauner. Pauner and Pemba Dorje continued climbing towards the summit. They stopped at about 8110m in a small valley between two false summits. The wind had gotten strong and it was now 4:00 pm. They rejoined Perez in C3; there were no sleeping bags in the camp, so they kept descending late into the night and reached BC at 2:00 am of the 29th. In BC Perez now discovered that toes on his right foot had become frostbitten. There were two doctors at BC who were experts on frostbite, and they gave him medication to minimize the damage. The toes are not black, and he hopes they will heal fully, but there is a possibility that their bones have been affected, which could lead to gangrene; they will have to watched during the coming weeks. Pauner wanted to go back up the mountain and go to the real summit. He waited in BC hoping for better weather, and on 7 May he and Pemba Dorje climbed up to C2. But while they were in it, their tent was crushed under the weight of newly falling snow. Pauner had to call out for help to get out of the tent. Japanese climbers came to his assistance, and they spent the rest of the night with the Japanese. They went back to BC on the 8th. Again, Pauner waited for improvement in the weather. But by the 12th, when the weather had not gotten any better, he decided to abandon the climb. They left BC for Kathmandu on the 13th in a helicopter because of Perez's frostbitten toes. They had planned to go to Lhotse after Manaslu, but now Pauner was too tired and Perez couldn't climb with him. Plan abandoned. Sherpa: Pemba Dorje (aka "Pemba Junge", Junge means moustache), 1/8/70 (17/4/2027), Kharikhola, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1 (had been on Manaslu several times before and knew the route very well)
Accidents Perez frostbitten toes
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458039
Year 2009
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Carlos Pauner Gotor M 1964 Spain Leader Zaragoza City, Zaragoza, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Perez Garcia M 1967 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Telecommunications engineer & teacher in technical school Details Other expeditions
Alberto Sanmartin Llegaron M 1973 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Restaurant owner Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje (Junje Pemba) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.