Manaslu | 2008 NE Face

A Kazakhstan expedition to Manaslu in 2008 via NE Face, led by Maxut Zhumayev. Summit reached on 14th May 2008. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6083
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MANA08103
Peak ID MANA
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Maxut Zhumayev
Sponsor Kazakhstan Manaslu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 100
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-04-18
Summit Date 2008-05-14
Summit Time 0943
Summit Days 26
Total Days 29
Termination Date 2008-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8163
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4700m),Biv1(20/4,5400m),Biv2(10/05,6400m),Biv3(11/05,6900m),Biv4(12/05,7400m),Smt(14/05)
Route Notes Kazakhstan Manaslu Expedition - Maxut Zhumayev (the only member) - 20 May 2008 Zhumayev had no fixed camps above base but had a series of bivouacs. After going to 5400m on 20 April, he descended to BC for the puja conducted by Nepalese with the German expedition and others. On 24 April he started up on what he hoped would be his push to the summit and returned to 5400m. Next day he moved up to go to his second high bivouac, but at 5700m while cutting bamboo with a pocket knife, he was distracted by a helicopter bringing the Germans's leader Thomas Laemmle to BC and he cut himself in the leg, so he went down to BC instead and rested there. On the 4th, he moved up to 6400m and on the 6th up to 6900m. On the 7th, he was trying to climb the icefall when bad weather forced him to stop at 7300m. On the 8th, Bulgarians stopped fixing rope in the icefall, and fearing that they did not know how to do it properly, Zhumayev returned to 6400m and on the 9th went back to BC to get more food and gas. On the 10th, he and German climbers went up to 6400m and on the 11th again up to 6900m. By now Sherpas with a Japanese team had fixed the icefall, so on the 12th he moved up to 7400m. In the night of the 12th/13th May, all teams except the Japanese who were at 7400m started up for a summit attempt, but the wind was extremely strong, and all of them retreated from 7600m to 7400m. Finally at 3:30 am on the 14th of May, when the wind was not so strong, Zhumayev and two Germans, Thomas Laemmle and Carsten Otto, left 7400m, and he reached the summit at 9:43 am. (the time shown by his dated photo). He waited at the top for two hours for the Germans to join him, then started his descent; he met them in their ascent about 100m below the summit but did not join them in their last climb to the top, as they asked him to do (he didn't want to retrace his steps) and was back at 7400m that night. On the 15th he was in BC. At the top, there were several small pyramid-like formations. He did not climb one of them because the rock was dangerous; it was perhaps two meters higher than the highest one he climbed, or perhaps it was actually lower than the others he did climb. This was his first climb in Nepal without a climbing partner, and he climbed frequently with the Germans and sometimes with Australians. Laemmle gave him a lot of encouragement to keep going. Letter to Eberhard Jurgalski from Maxut Zhumayev - 5 Nov 2008 Thanks for your letter. I with you completely agree that the top of Manaslu demands special attention, in particular highest point achievement. In the spring of 2008 I the first in a season have risen on peak of Manaslu. Having reached the first rocky tops, I have continued movement on a crest towards distant rocky top. Spring of 2008 at top was not enough snow that has increased danger at achievement of the highest point. I apply 2 photos: one of under tops with a flag and the second a kind on top from rocky top about the main top. The similar situation has occurred to my friend Vasilly Pivtsov. I apply 4 photos made Vasilly at an ascension on top of Manaslu.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457644
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Maxut S. Zhumayev M 1977 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.