Malanphulan | 2023 NW Ridge
A Nepal expedition to Malanphulan in 2023 via NW Ridge, led by Prakash Sherpa. Summit reached on 3rd November 2023. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 11267 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MALA23301 |
| Peak ID | MALA |
| Year | 2023 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Nepal |
| Leaders | Prakash Sherpa |
| Sponsor | Alpinist Climber Malanphulan Expedition 2023 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy, USA |
| Approach | Lukla->Namche->Ama Dablam BC |
| Basecamp Date | 2023-10-20 |
| Summit Date | 2023-11-03 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 18 |
| Termination Date | 2023-11-07 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6200m due to bad conditions |
| High Point (m) | 6200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/10,4600m),C1(31/10,5800m),xxx(03/11,6200m) |
| Route Notes | From Prakash Sherpa: November 3, 2023 two IFMGA/UIAGM guides Riten Jangbu Sherpa and Prakash Sherpa along with their clients Jay Mathers and Luigi Santini attempted the unclimbed NW Ridge of Malanphulan of Nepal in alpine-style which is located in beautiful hidden valley of Khumbu Everest region. Despite having very exposed North Face to find the camp 1 below shoulder ridge & via SW Ridge we have successfully reached 6200m approximately even though on very unstable snow conditions where very rarely we can put the anchorage beside having the shock of earthquake on Friday night. Malangphulan is believed to be a sacred and protected holy mountain in Sherpas community which is also worshipped and recited Mantras in Buddhist holy text in every monastery of Khumbu region. Thus we did Big Puja ceremonies at Pangboche Monastery worshipped all the holy deities and protected as local belief for safe passage. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Alpinist Climber |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2463850 |
| Year | 2023 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pemba (Prakash) Sherpa | M | 1992 | Nepal | Leader | Pawai-1, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| John Joseph (Jay) Mathers | M | 1972 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Luigi Santini | M | 1970 | Italy | Climber | Cesena, Forlì-Cesena, Italy | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Riten Jangbu (Tashi) Sherpa | M | 1983 | Nepal | Climbing Guide | Ghorthali-2, Sindhupalchok | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MALA23301 | - | - | https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/alpinists-attempt-tough-northwest-ridge-on-malangphulang-peak | - | - | - |
| MALA23301 | - | - | https://www.alpinistclimberexpeditions.com/malangphulang/ | - | - | - |
| MALA23301 | AAJ | Mathers, Jay | Melanphulan, Northwest Ridge, Attempt | - | 98:320 (2024) | - |
| MALA23301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216869 | - | - | - |