Malanphulan | 2000 W Face

A USA expedition to Malanphulan in 2000 via W Face, led by Peter Carse. Summit reached on 28th April 2000. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3630
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MALA00101
Peak ID MALA
Year 2000
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Peter Carse
Sponsor American Malanphulan Expedition 2000
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Hinku Nup Glacier
Basecamp Date 2000-04-13
Summit Date 2000-04-28
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 15
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2000-05-03
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6573
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04,5000m),C1(17/04,5200m),C2(20/04,5640m),Biv(27/04,6250m),Smt(28/04)
Route Notes Peter Carse - Oct 10, 2000 This peak in the Khumbu lies 6 km south of Ama Dablam and 5 km ENE of Kang Taiga on the divide between the Hinku and Mingbo watersheds. On the Schneider Khumbu Himal map (1988) it is unnamed, but on some maps it is indicated as "Melanpulan." Supy Bullard and I climbed the West Face to the summit from a camp at 5640m on the edge of the Hinku Nup Glacier. We arrived in Kathmandu on Apr 4, 2000 and flew to Lukla the next day. After hiring porters and having a nice visit with our friends Ang Pisang and Dawa Phuti at the Paradise Lodge, we departed Lukla on Apr 8. We established our Base Camp at 5000m on the Hinku Nup Glacier on Apr 13. From here we shuttled loads up the rock-covered glacier near the base of the East Face of Kang Taiga where we established C1 below a rocky headwall at 5200m on Apr 17. The headwall proved to be straightforward scrambling up third class ledges, and we shuttled loads up into the head of the NE lobe of the Hinku Nup, establishing our C2 on Apr 20 at 5640m. On the 21st we rested; on the 22nd, a windy day, we scrambled to 5790m on the south side of adjacent P 6000m to the NW of camp. On the 23rd we climbed seven pitches on the West Face of Melanpulan to 6040m, establishing belay/rappel anchors on each pitch. On the 24th we rested, as it was snowing in the morning. Almost every day after leaving Lukla, the weather would cloud up and snow lightly in the afternoon, but mornings were generally clear. On the 25th we broke trail again over the to the foot of the face and fixed a rope across the bergschrund, returning to camp in the afternoon. On the 26th we got up at 2 am and climbed the first four pitches of our route, but descended by mid-morning because of the cold: our feet were numb. On Apr 27 we started off again up the face with a new plan: we carried full bivvy gear and didn't leave camp until 8 am, to take advantage of warmer temperatures, planning to bivvy on a snow rib at 6250m. The climbing across the 'schrund was initially 45-degree snow with occasional protruding rocks, steepening to 60-degree ice runnels. The bivvy was fantastic: we scratched out a tiny level spot on the snow rib, and secured ourselves to a couple ice axes buried in the snow. On Apr 20 we climbed the remaining 11 pitches to the summit, arriving at 3:30 pm. The first two pitches above the bivvy were steeper, 75 to 80-degree thin ice and loose rock, then we were back to 60-degree ice runnel. At about 6400m there was another tricky section which involved the crossing of a small 'schrund and some more mixed climbing, then the runnel continued straight to the top. The last pitch was entirely on steep snow, and since we didn't bring any pickets we buried an ice axe for an anchor for the first rappel off the top. We rappelled the route, using the ice thread anchors we had established on the ascent, as far as our bivvy, which we reached at 5:30 pm and spent another night there. On the 29th we rappelled the rest of the way down the face in two hours, and rested that afternoon at our C2. Our departure from the mountain proceeded as follows: Apr 30: Descend to BC with all materials from C2 May 01: Retrieve cache from C1 May 02: BC to Kare, to hire porters May 03: Hike up to BC with porters, retrieve loads, descend to Tangnag May 04: Tangnag to Kote May 05: Kote to Thuli Kharka May 06: Thuli Kharka to Lukla May 10: Lukla to Kathmandu by air On our way out, we saw a Russian climber going in to attempt the North Face of Kang Taiga solo. Other than that, our party didn't see anyone, or see signs of anyone in the upper reaches of the Hinku Nup.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454698
Year 2000
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter John Carse M 1958 USA Leader Bozeman, Montana Ski patroller Details Other expeditions
Amy Camp (Supy) Bullard F 1968 USA Climber Bozeman, Montana Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MALA00101 AAJ Carse, Peter - - 75:389-391 (2001) -
MALA00101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200138900/Asia-Nepal-Western-Nepal-Janak-Himal-Peak-6571m-West-Face - - -