Makalu | 1999 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Australia expedition to Makalu in 1999 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Matthew Rolfe. Summit reached on 16th May 1999. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3351
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA99101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1999
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Matthew Rolfe
Sponsor Australian-American Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 59th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1999-04-12
Summit Date 1999-05-16
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 34
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1999-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,5600m),C1(18/04,6200m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(02/05,7600m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes BC at high BC C1 on Chago Glacier just before steep part to Makalu La C3 at top of Japanese arrete. Did not go to Makalu La but went to top of Japanese Couloir and then northeast to cross NW Ridge. 1st summit bid not above C3 because of winds. Adams and Rolfe left BC 8 May but had report that attempt on 9th failed from C3 [Bridges and Groom] and others staying on till end May if necessary for Groom and Bridges. Sloezen soloed Japanese arrete to C2. Groom - 27 May: Groom and Bridges on 15 May moved C3 up to 7800m which was safer: more sheltered from fierce winds at 7600m sites and safer from avalanches. Left at 2:30 am on 16th, lot of powder snow, got lost in dark, but reached top at 12:00 noon together - got to very highest point. Too tired to go down beyond C3 at 7800m which reached at 3:00 pm has slept there on 16th; slept in BC on 17th. Hall and Sloezen tried summit bid but wind prevented there going above Makalu La. Bridges - 30 May: Rolfe was incompetent as a leader and had misrepresented his climbing skills. [From Sheer Will, by Micheal Groom: Rolfe, Adams, Davenport and Sauls left BC in early May.]
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Su-Swagatam Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454349
Year 1999
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul David Adams M 1964 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Geologist Details Other expeditions
David P. Bridges M 1970 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christopher Elstun (Chris) Davenport M 1971 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Skier Details Other expeditions
Michael Graeme Groom M 1959 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Lincoln Ross Hall M 1955 Australia Climber Blackheath, NSW, Australia Writer Details Other expeditions
Matthew John (Matt) Rolfe M 1968 Australia Leader Norman Park, QLD, Australia Health consultant Details Other expeditions
Kenneth Brian (Ken) Sauls M 1965 USA Climber Silverton, Colorado Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Robert (Bob) Sloezen M 1953 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide, ski instructor & construction worker Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA99101 - - http://www.backcountry.com/store/newsletter/a728/Dumbest-Moves-Ever.html - - -
MAKA99101 - Groom, Michael Sheer Will Random House Australia, Milsons Point, NSW - -