Makalu | 1996 NW Ridge route (to 6800m)

A Japan expedition to Makalu in 1996 via NW Ridge route (to 6800m), led by Yasushi Yamanoi. Summit reached on 25th September 1996. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2020
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA96305
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge route (to 6800m)
Route 2 W Face (Swiss rte) (to 7400m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasushi Yamanoi
Sponsor Japan Makalu West Face Expedition 1996
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Helicopter->and from BC area (west of Barun Pokhari)
Basecamp Date 1996-09-06
Summit Date 1996-09-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1996-09-30
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned on 26 Sep due to hurt by rock falling on Yamanoi's head
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,5300m),Biv1(10/09,6500m),Biv2(11/09,6800m),Biv3(25/09,6700m),xxx(25/09,7400m)
Route Notes BC at normal site at glaciers' junction Biv on NW Ridge route Biv on NW Ridge route Biv on West Face High point on West Face. Yamonoi to 6200m and back to BC on 8 Sept. 10 Sept up to 6500m biv and 11th to 6800m and to 6500m. 12 Sept to 6800m and down to BC; all this to acclimatize while TV team and Nagao taking photos near C1. 16th Sept Yamonoi went up West Face to 6700m to deposit supplies of equipment and back to BC. 21st Sept 1st attack for top but snow falling so turned back at 6000m. 2nd attack 24th Sept; left BC in afternoon and at bottom of wall waited till evening to try to climb face starting at 7:00 pm. 2:00 am 25th reached 6700m depot and biv. 25th 6:00 pm up and at 7400m at 9:00 pm rock (first rope) hit Yamanoi on head and despite helmet he felt pain in neck and chest and turned down to 6700m (arrived at midnight). 26th tried again but by time reached 7200m felt bad and abandoned climb. Avalanching on face; small snow avalanches and small rocks. Wants to return to face (in autumn season) part of face he climbed not technically difficult but had 13 kg food on his back in solo effort.
Accidents Yamanoi hit by falling rock
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453383
Year 1996
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge route (to 6800m)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroshi Aota M 1958 Japan Climber Nou-machi, Niigata, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Jiro Dohi M 1964 Japan Film Team Yokohama, Japan Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Shigehiro Hirayama M 1972 Japan Film Team Yokohama, Japan Video engineer Details Other expeditions
Tabashi Ishii M 1963 Japan Film Team Tokyo, Japan Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Taeko Nagao F 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Hotel worker Details Other expeditions
Hiroaki Takeishi M 1967 Japan Film Team Tokyo, Japan Television director Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Advisor on mountaineering equipment & baggage porter Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA96305 AAJ Yamanoi, Yasushi - - 71:302 (1997) -
MAKA96305 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730200/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Face-Attempt - - -