Makalu | 1996 NE Ridge (to 6420m)

A China expedition to Makalu in 1996 via NE Ridge (to 6420m), led by Samdrup. Summit reached on 10th October 1996. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2026
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA96301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge (to 6420m)
Route 2 NE Ridge (Japanese 1986 rte) (to 7000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality China
Leaders Samdrup
Sponsor China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->Karta
Basecamp Date 1996-09-03
Summit Date 1996-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1996-10-18
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m on 18 Oct due to dangerous snow conditions
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,3900m),C1(07/09,4200m),C2(12/09,5300m),TeamA.C3(16/10,6420m),TeamA.xxx(16/09,6420m),TeamB.xxx(10/10,7000m)
Route Notes High point at C3. Divided into A and B teams above C2. 30 days in BC because of heavy snowfall after C2 established and difficult to reach C3 site. Team A were Akebu, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na, and Tshering Dorje. Unable to go above C3 because of deep snow - tried 4 times to go above C3. Many avalanches. Expedition attempted "same route as Japanese, but followed ridge" - apparently did not use route suggested by Tanabe. Team B high point of 7000m there was snow 1.90 meters deep and very soft - too much danger from avalanching to try climbing again. 13 May 96 - leader Samdrup said planned to leave Lhasa 25 Aug to go to BC, which they would reach after 1 week. Summit attempt to be around 30 Sept-2 Oct. Difficult rock wall 200m high slowed progress above C1. This is where 350m of rope fixed. Highest point (C3) reached by 4 members (Akebu, Ren Na, Tshering Dorje, Pemba Tashi) and 2 Tibetans high altitude porters recruited locally (Lhakpa and Norbu). 2 HAP remained at C3 for one week; 4 members stayed 3 days, descended to C2, then returned to C3 to check condition of route to C3, found very deep snow on route and immediately descended without sleeping again in C3. Expedition had intended to follow 1995 spring Japanese route, but Lhasa TMA office insisted to Dou-Chang Shen from Lhasa they had been on West Ridge, so Dou thinks they probably did not climb Japanese route. Maybe they started up wrong route, were on West Ridge, completely different from Japanese.
Accidents Avalanche carried 7 members 50m down, but not hurt seriously
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453353
Year 1996
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge (to 6420m)

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akebu (Akbu, Akbulnut) M 1962 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Cameraman & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dachung (Daqiong) M 1963 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Gyalbu (Jiabu) M 1959 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lhotse (Luoze, Lodue) M 1962 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lossang Yonden M 1955 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tashi (Bianba Zhaxi) M 1965 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Samdrup (Samdruk) M 1953 China Leader Shigatse, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Tsering Dorje (Cerin Duoji) M 1960 China Climber Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wangyal (Wangjia) M 1957 China Climber Lhatse Dzong, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ren Na M 1966 China Climber Shigatse, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ming-Xing Zhang M 1962 China Secretary/interpreter Lhasa, Tibet, China Tibet Mountaineering Association staff member Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA96301 HIGH - - - 175:84 (Jun 1997) -