Makalu | 1996 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Russia expedition to Makalu in 1996 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Vladimir Bachkirov. Summit reached on 19th May 1996. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1768
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA96101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Vladimir Bachkirov
Sponsor Kuzbass Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 50th,51st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-07
Summit Date 1996-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 42
Total Days 60
Termination Date 1996-06-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 21
Summit Members 10
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4900m),BC(15/04,4900m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(13/05,7700m),Smt(19,23/05)
Route Notes BC at 25 minutes south of Barun Pokhari C1 at south end of Chago Glacier on west side C2 at middle of united Chago Glacier C3 at Makalu La. Had planned for all members to go to normal NW Ridge route and reach summit, but lost 10-12 days from accident on 14th May, the day before planned summit bid. Chlekht fell 300m from 7900m; no one saw him fall. Body found next morning; fell about 5:00-6:00 pm. No snow at the mountain, all very hard ice, so probably slipped, crampons perhaps not sharp enough; body left where he fell inside tent and covered him with snow blocks. Those of who were to get to top on 15th went down to BC. All decided to continue expedition and another group started up from C1 and 19th 4 reached summit while 4 turned back 200m so from top; on top were Sokolov, Plotnikov, Kogemiako and Koroteev, all from C3 except Koreteev who started from C4. All in good health and returned from camps they had started from. Others six refused to climb now because of friends death and "their spirit was very low" (and one of six was Chlekht's widow). Second summit party started up from BC on 19th and on 23rd on top from C3 via normal route, one [Savkov] using oxygen from C2 because he was tired, weak. This party were Bachkirov, Bogomolov, Foigt, Stalkovski, Vegner and Outchev and down to C3. Now plan to rest 4-5 days and go to summit via West Face. On 31 May started from BC and reached 5800m on glacier on west side of Makalu; 1 June weather bad (snowing) and down to BC some days (stayed bad to 6 June) so did not go again on mountain. Expected to take 4-5 days to climb face and now no time; flight from KTM set for 8 June. 18 members reached C3 during expedition. Bachkirov article in American Alpine Journal for 1997 says a summiter on 23 May was Outechev and Savkov not listed. On 19 April 1999 Abramov and Cherny of 1999 Spring Russian Cho Oyu expedition confirmed that this was correct; Savkov was not a high climber.
Accidents Nothing except fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453209
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Bachkirov M 1952 Russia Leader Korolev (Kaliningrad), Russia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Yuri Baikovski M 1958 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Physiologist Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Belkine M 1964 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 Russia Climber Saratov, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Olga Chilenina F 1963 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Chlekht M 1958 Russia Climber Tomsk, Russia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Polina Chlekht F 1960 Russia Climber Tomsk, Russia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Ermilov M 1955 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Alexander Foigt M 1958 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Kogemiako M 1960 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Koroteev M 1955 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Juri Outechev M 1955 Russia Climber Mezdurechensk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ivan Plotnikov M 1960 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Savkov M 1957 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Gleb Sokolov M 1953 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Stalkovski M 1958 Russia Exp Doctor Essentuki, Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Stalkovski M 1961 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Vegner M 1959 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Igor Vorobiev M 1963 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Electrician engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Zoev M 1956 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Luobova Zoeva F 1955 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA96101 AAJ Bachkirov, Vladimir - - 71:303 (1997) -
MAKA96101 HIGH - - - 167:68 (Oct 1996) -
MAKA96101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730301/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Face-Attempt-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -