Makalu | 1995 SE Ridge
A USA expedition to Makalu in 1995 via SE Ridge, led by Daniel Mazur. Summit reached on 9th October 1995. 17 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1539 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA95301 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1995 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Daniel Mazur |
| Sponsor | Makalu SE Ridge Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 49th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | France, Russia, Switzerland, UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1995-09-03 |
| Summit Date | 1995-10-09 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 36 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6000m),C2(15/09,6550m),Biv3(06/10,7200m),Biv4(07/10,7750m),Biv5(08/10,8100m),Smt(09/10) |
| Route Notes | BC south of Barun Pokhari ABC NNE of Barun Pokhari C1 on glacier southwest of southeast Glacier C2 at South Col Biv 3 at SE Ridge - the mushroom (rock) Biv 4 in Cwm (eastern Cwm) Biv 5 at west wall of eastern Cwm. SE Face too dangerous from avalanching so not attempted. Winds from east got stronger as ths summit team came down from camp/biv 5 to C2 on 10th. Lost 2 tents early in climb at S Col. From 15th Sept to 3 Oct very bad weather with 1 meter of unconsolidated snow and strong winds that blew snow especially at S Col. Most difficult section at 8400m rock on West Pillar (50-75m high) which couldn't surmount and had to climb around in very deep snow on steep cliff. Snow, rain and wind from 3 Sept to 3 Oct and this demoralized member who left early. With weather not letting up, it was not possible to make fixed camps above South Col; wanted to make at least one camp in cwm. |
| Accidents | Slight frostbite by summiters |
| Achievement | 1st British summiters |
| Agency | In Wilderness (Kunga) |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452985 |
| Year | 1995 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
17 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Roblee Peter Allen | M | 1950 | USA | Exp Doctor | Sacramento, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Olivier Besson | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre-Alain Bron | M | 1970 | Switzerland | Climber | La Tour, Vaud, Switzerland | Aviation mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew (Andy) Collins | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | London, England | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Christophe Jond | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Praz-sur-Arly, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew N. Lafferty | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | London, England | Solicitor | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott Lewallen | M | 1954 | USA | Climber | London, England | Banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur | M | 1960 | USA | Leader | Bristol, Avon, England & Hamilton, Montana | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander P. (Alec) McNab | M | 1960 | UK | Climber | Edinburgh, Scotland | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Aleksei (Alex) Nikiforov | M | 1955 | Russia | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| William O'Neill | M | 1943 | UK | Climber | Seamill, Strathclyde, Scotland | Medic (not doctor) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacques Pahud | M | 1967 | Switzerland | Climber | Lausanne, Switzerland | Forester | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan C. Pratt | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Shenfield, Essex, England | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher Shaw | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Computer programmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Allan S. Treadwell | M | 1963 | USA | Climber | Sacramento, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Christophe Van Waes | M | 1968 | France | Climber | Lille, Nord, France | Insurance adjustor | Details Other expeditions |
| David Wallis | M | 1970 | UK | Climber | Alperton, Middlesex, England | Trained as teacher but lives on family wealth | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA95301 | AAJ | Mazur, Daniel | The End of a Dream | - | 70:39-46 (1996) | - |
| MAKA95301 | HJ | Mazur, Daniel | 1995 Makalu Southeast Ridge Expedition | - | 52:199-203 (1996) | - |
| MAKA95301 | AJ | Pratt, Jonathan | International Makalu Expedition 1995 | - | 101:63-67 (1996) | - |
| MAKA95301 | HIGH | Pratt, Jonathan | Makalu | - | 160:42-45 (Mar 1996) | - |
| MAKA95301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 161:27-29 (Apr 1996) | - |
| MAKA95301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199604000/The-End-of-a-Dream-An-Alpine-Style-Ascent-of-the-Southeast-Ridge-of-Makalu | - | - | - |
| MAKA95301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ | - | - | - |
| MAKA95301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%2059-67%20Pratt%2094%2095.pdf | - | - | - |