Makalu | 1995 SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1995 via SE Ridge, led by Daniel Mazur. Summit reached on 9th October 1995. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1539
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA95301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Daniel Mazur
Sponsor Makalu SE Ridge Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 49th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, Russia, Switzerland, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-09-03
Summit Date 1995-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,4800m),ABC(08/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6000m),C2(15/09,6550m),Biv3(06/10,7200m),Biv4(07/10,7750m),Biv5(08/10,8100m),Smt(09/10)
Route Notes BC south of Barun Pokhari ABC NNE of Barun Pokhari C1 on glacier southwest of southeast Glacier C2 at South Col Biv 3 at SE Ridge - the mushroom (rock) Biv 4 in Cwm (eastern Cwm) Biv 5 at west wall of eastern Cwm. SE Face too dangerous from avalanching so not attempted. Winds from east got stronger as ths summit team came down from camp/biv 5 to C2 on 10th. Lost 2 tents early in climb at S Col. From 15th Sept to 3 Oct very bad weather with 1 meter of unconsolidated snow and strong winds that blew snow especially at S Col. Most difficult section at 8400m rock on West Pillar (50-75m high) which couldn't surmount and had to climb around in very deep snow on steep cliff. Snow, rain and wind from 3 Sept to 3 Oct and this demoralized member who left early. With weather not letting up, it was not possible to make fixed camps above South Col; wanted to make at least one camp in cwm.
Accidents Slight frostbite by summiters
Achievement 1st British summiters
Agency In Wilderness (Kunga)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452985
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Roblee Peter Allen M 1950 USA Exp Doctor Sacramento, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Olivier Besson M 1962 France Climber Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Alain Bron M 1970 Switzerland Climber La Tour, Vaud, Switzerland Aviation mechanic Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Collins M 1966 UK Climber London, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Christophe Jond M 1960 France Climber Praz-sur-Arly, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew N. Lafferty M 1966 UK Climber London, England Solicitor Details Other expeditions
Scott Lewallen M 1954 USA Climber London, England Banker Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Leader Bristol, Avon, England & Hamilton, Montana Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Alexander P. (Alec) McNab M 1960 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Aleksei (Alex) Nikiforov M 1955 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Geologist Details Other expeditions
William O'Neill M 1943 UK Climber Seamill, Strathclyde, Scotland Medic (not doctor) Details Other expeditions
Jacques Pahud M 1967 Switzerland Climber Lausanne, Switzerland Forester Details Other expeditions
Jonathan C. Pratt M 1958 UK Climber Shenfield, Essex, England Mining engineer Details Other expeditions
Christopher Shaw M 1962 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Allan S. Treadwell M 1963 USA Climber Sacramento, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Jean-Christophe Van Waes M 1968 France Climber Lille, Nord, France Insurance adjustor Details Other expeditions
David Wallis M 1970 UK Climber Alperton, Middlesex, England Trained as teacher but lives on family wealth Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA95301 AAJ Mazur, Daniel The End of a Dream - 70:39-46 (1996) -
MAKA95301 HJ Mazur, Daniel 1995 Makalu Southeast Ridge Expedition - 52:199-203 (1996) -
MAKA95301 AJ Pratt, Jonathan International Makalu Expedition 1995 - 101:63-67 (1996) -
MAKA95301 HIGH Pratt, Jonathan Makalu - 160:42-45 (Mar 1996) -
MAKA95301 HIGH - - - 161:27-29 (Apr 1996) -
MAKA95301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199604000/The-End-of-a-Dream-An-Alpine-Style-Ascent-of-the-Southeast-Ridge-of-Makalu - - -
MAKA95301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ - - -
MAKA95301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%2059-67%20Pratt%2094%2095.pdf - - -