Makalu | 1995 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1995 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Juanito Oiarzabal. Summit reached on 8th May 1995. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1446
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA95102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juanito Oiarzabal
Sponsor Basque Makalu Expedition 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 43rd,45th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries S Korea
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-04-06
Summit Date 1995-05-08
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 700
Total Members 5
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,5600m),C1(08/04,6200m),C2(15/04,6700m),C3(25/04,7400m),C4(26/04,7800m),Smt(08-09/05)
Route Notes BC at beginning of glacier, higher than same ABCs C3 at Makalu La. 27th April made timid summit attempt from C4 with 200-300m gained, very windy and dark clouds and down. 2 May from C3 but tent broken in night by very strong winds and all 5 down again. 3rd attempt on 8th May: left C4 3 am, on top 10:30 am and down to C4 2 pm. On 7th May reached C4 but found wind had taken away camp's one tent, so 3 members slept in Australian's tent, 1 in French tent with Chamoux and Royer and Zerain went back to C3. On 9 May Zerain left C4 at 3:30 am and on top 9 am and down to C3 at noon. All to BC 9 and 10 May.
Accidents Kitchen boy altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452831
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Leader Vitoria, Alava, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Benzamin Ruiz de Infante M 1950 Spain Climber Oreitia, Alava, Spain Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Climber Gyeonggi-do, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Juan Vallejo Llanos M 1970 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Alberto Zerain Berasategui M 1961 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Wholesale wine salesman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA95102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:272 (1996) -
MAKA95102 HIGH - - - 155:11 (Oct 1995) -
MAKA95102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627202/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Ascents-and-Tragedy - - -