Makalu | 1995 E Ridge to plateau E of Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Makalu in 1995 via E Ridge to plateau E of Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Tsuneo Shigehiro. Summit reached on 21st May 1995. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1445
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA95101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 E Ridge to plateau E of Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tsuneo Shigehiro
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club Makalu Expedition 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 47th,48th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-03-30
Summit Date 1995-05-21
Summit Time 1245
Summit Days 52
Total Days 59
Termination Date 1995-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 5600
Total Members 16
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,3920m),C1(17/04,4670m),C2(04/04,5180m),C3(14/04,5660m),C4(28/04,6300m),C5(13/05,6800m),C6(19/05,7350m),C7(20/05,7650m),Smt(21-22/05)
Route Notes C1 (at first only deposit) C2 on south side of East Ridge C3 on south side of East Ridge C4 on East Ridge C5 on East Ridge C6 on NW Ridge normal route. E Ridge originally intended route but decided at BC this ridge had too many small rock peaks and would take much time to follow it, so went from BC to C3 on south side of ridge and then from C3 to ridge, where C4 and C5 were pitched. C6 below Makalu La and C7 on NW Ridge of normal route. Fixed 5600m: C2 to C3 half this distance, half of route again between C3 to C4, all of C4 to C5, C5 to junction peak of 7300m all; C6 to C7 150m only, from C7 to summit 400m - most difficult from C3 to C5: from C3 to C4 very sharp snow and ice ridge with cornices. From C3 and C4 ice avalanche hit 2 Sherpas but not seriously hurt. Tanabe hit by rock at 8300m and head gashed but could continue descent without help. On 21 May summit party left C7 at 4 am and on top 12:45 pm and 2 members returned to C7 to sleep while others 2 to C6 about 6 pm and slept there; very clear but very strong wind. 22 May summiters started from C7 at 3:30 am, on top 11:40 am and slept in C6. "This most difficult climb in my experience" says Tanabe. Expedition financed by Yomiyuri newspaper. Royalty was $30,000 and were 12 climbing members. Campsites as given in JAC notes: BC(30/03,3960m),C1,C2(04/04,4690m),C3(14/04,5650m),C4(28/04,6300m), C5(13/05,6820m),C6(19/05,7350m),C7(20/05,7650m),Smt(21-22/05)
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st attempt and 1st ascent from Tibet
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452844
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) e ridge to plateau e of makalu la-nw ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toshihiko Arai M 1971 Japan Climber Tama, Tokyo, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Baba M 1948 Japan Climber Kikuchi-gun, Kumamoto, Japan Telecommunications engineer Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Matsubara M 1965 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Brewery salesman Details Other expeditions
Eishi Miyasaka M 1964 Japan Journalist Tokyo, Japan Reporter Details Other expeditions
Ken Okamoto M 1969 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Mountain photographer & tour guide Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Ono M 1960 Japan Climber Omiya, Saitama, Japan Engineer & architect Details Other expeditions
Yasutoshi Sakota M 1945 Japan Journalist Zama, Kanagawa, Japan Reporter Details Other expeditions
Naoko Shiga F 1966 Japan Exp Doctor Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Shigehiro M 1947 Japan Leader Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan Business manager Details Other expeditions
Hirotaka Takeuchi M 1971 Japan Climber Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Yoshitaka Takuwa M 1962 Japan BC Manager Matsue, Shimane, Japan Medical student Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Climber Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yuji Watanabe M 1951 Japan Climber Imaichi, Tochigi, Japan High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Atsushi Yamamoto M 1962 Japan Climber Hachioji, Tokyo, Japan Pharmecutical salesman Details Other expeditions
Munehiko Yamamoto M 1959 Japan Climbing Leader Omiya, Saitama, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Taro Tanigawa M 1967 Japan Climber Komae, Tokyo, Japan Construction worker Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA95101 JAC Shigehiro, Tsuneo A Passage to Mt. Makalu by East Ridge - 90:A23-25 (1995) -
MAKA95101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:318 (1996) -
MAKA95101 HJ Shigehiro, T. A Passage to Makalu by East Ridge - 52:193-196 (1996) -
MAKA95101 - Japanese Alpine Club Makalu: The East Ridge 1995 Yamatokeikoku-Sha, Tokyo - -
MAKA95101 HIGH - - - 155:10-11 (Oct 1995) -
MAKA95101 JAC Shigehiro, Tsuneo A Passage to Mt. Makalu by East Ridge - 90:23-34 (1995) -
MAKA95101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199631801/Asia-Tibet-Makalu-New-Route-on-Northeast-Face - - -
MAKA95101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ - - -