Makalu | 1993 Left point of W Face-NW Ridge

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Makalu in 1993 via Left point of W Face-NW Ridge, led by Jiri Novak. Summit reached on 10th October 1993. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1291
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA93304
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Left point of W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Jiri Novak
Sponsor Makalu International Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-18
Summit Date 1993-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1993-10-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to wind & bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,5300m),ABC(19/09,5800m),C1(26/09,6600m),C2(05/10,7400m),C3(09/10,7900m),xxx(10/10,8200m)
Route Notes BC in area of high BC ABC on rock between 2 glaciers C1 on Kukuczka pillar C2 at Makalu La C3 below NW Ridge High point at NW Ridge. Snow fall after 20th Sept to end Oct every day, not heavy fall but daily. Went to Makalu La to avoid avalanches. South of La tried 2 lines above C3: Nicco and Moro got to 8200m on ridge and winds very dangerous. One day later Mysik and Rakoncaj reached 7900-8000m left of ridge to normal route and snow made impossible to cross serac zone (in 1 hour climbed 30m). Moro on 11th tried again on ridge but again stopped by wind at 8200m. Climb now finished (watched weather from BC for 3 days but no change).
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Everest Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452254
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) left point of w face-nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lobor Hroza M 1963 Czechoslovakia Climber Decin, Czechoslovakia Sports equipment manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Colere, Bergamo, Italy Alpinist & rock-walls builder Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Mysik M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Teplice, Czechoslovakia Owner of bicycle shops Details Other expeditions
Polando Nicco M 1957 Italy Climber Ayas, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jiri Novak M 1945 Czechoslovakia Leader Kladno, Czechoslovakia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czechoslovakia Deputy Leader Turnov, Czechoslovakia Alpinist & sports equipment manufacturer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA93304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:205-206 (1994) -
MAKA93304 HJ Novak, Jiri Makalu I - 51:189-191 (1995) -
MAKA93304 HIGH - - - 138:5 (May 1994) -
MAKA93304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -
MAKA93304 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/51/18/expeditions-and-notes-51/ - - -