Makalu | 1993 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A France expedition to Makalu in 1993 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Jean Coudray. Summit reached on 7th October 1993. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1293 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA93303 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Jean Coudray |
| Sponsor | French Expedition Makalu 1993 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-09-13 |
| Summit Date | 1993-10-07 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 24 |
| Total Days | 32 |
| Termination Date | 1993-10-15 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8000m due to strong wind, very cold & members very tired |
| High Point (m) | 8000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1000 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(13/09,5400m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(04/10,7400m),xxx(07/10,8000m) |
| Route Notes | BC slightly above high BC on level site C1 on rock on moraine between 2 glaciers C2 at Chago glacier C3 at Makalu La High point at north side of NW Ridge. Approach march more difficult for blind member (Guy Gerard) because many stones & some days he took 2-3 hrs longer than normal person; more difficult than on the snow which had danger of avalanches, but climbed to right of it in variation of normal route. No C4 made but tried to reach top from C3; thought not really necessary except to give safety. 1st attempt on 5th and each day there after to 8th. Cordola was last to try (on 8th) of total of 8 members and 1 Sherpa from C3. Gerard reached 7200m on 7th with Coudray. Didn't know if summit party successful, needed help or what was situation in C3; Gerard and 1 Sherpa turned back at 7200m while Coudray went on up. Gerard in snow normal rate of ascent, even fast, but on fixed rope was slow because had not much experience with technique of its use. Gerard dissappointed not to go higher but enjoyed climb and its ambiance. Thinks he will certainly want to come back to Himalaya, perhaps lower mountain. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | 1st blind man's attempt |
| Agency | Alpine Treks |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452251 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Evelyne Bajard | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Lyon, Rhone, France | Laboratory technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Charriere | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Moutiere, Savoie, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Louis Cleaz | M | 1964 | France | Climber | Aime, Savoie, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacques Robert Cordola | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Coudray | M | 1942 | France | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine & skiing instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Guy Gerard | M | 1944 | France | Climber | Lyon, Rhone, France | Postal worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Luc Nicolino | M | 1963 | France | Climber | Aime, Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Yves Roche | M | 1973 | France | Climber | Montagny, Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Raymond Ulliel | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Thierry Vescovi | M | 1964 | France | Climber | Cevins, Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ariele Vincent | F | 1965 | France | Exp Doctor | Moirans-en-Montagne, Jura, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA93303 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:205-206 (1994) | - |
| MAKA93303 | HIGH | - | - | - | 138:5 (May 1994) | - |
| MAKA93303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts | - | - | - |