Makalu | 1993 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A France expedition to Makalu in 1993 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Jean Coudray. Summit reached on 7th October 1993. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1293
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA93303
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean Coudray
Sponsor French Expedition Makalu 1993
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-13
Summit Date 1993-10-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1993-10-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to strong wind, very cold & members very tired
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,5400m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6400m),C3(04/10,7400m),xxx(07/10,8000m)
Route Notes BC slightly above high BC on level site C1 on rock on moraine between 2 glaciers C2 at Chago glacier C3 at Makalu La High point at north side of NW Ridge. Approach march more difficult for blind member (Guy Gerard) because many stones & some days he took 2-3 hrs longer than normal person; more difficult than on the snow which had danger of avalanches, but climbed to right of it in variation of normal route. No C4 made but tried to reach top from C3; thought not really necessary except to give safety. 1st attempt on 5th and each day there after to 8th. Cordola was last to try (on 8th) of total of 8 members and 1 Sherpa from C3. Gerard reached 7200m on 7th with Coudray. Didn't know if summit party successful, needed help or what was situation in C3; Gerard and 1 Sherpa turned back at 7200m while Coudray went on up. Gerard in snow normal rate of ascent, even fast, but on fixed rope was slow because had not much experience with technique of its use. Gerard dissappointed not to go higher but enjoyed climb and its ambiance. Thinks he will certainly want to come back to Himalaya, perhaps lower mountain.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st blind man's attempt
Agency Alpine Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452251
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Evelyne Bajard M 1953 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Alain Charriere M 1954 France Climber Moutiere, Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Jean-Louis Cleaz M 1964 France Climber Aime, Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Jacques Robert Cordola M 1949 France Climber Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jean Coudray M 1942 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions
Guy Gerard M 1944 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Postal worker Details Other expeditions
Luc Nicolino M 1963 France Climber Aime, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Yves Roche M 1973 France Climber Montagny, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Raymond Ulliel M 1953 France Climber Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France Electrician Details Other expeditions
Thierry Vescovi M 1964 France Climber Cevins, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ariele Vincent F 1965 France Exp Doctor Moirans-en-Montagne, Jura, France Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA93303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:205-206 (1994) -
MAKA93303 HIGH - - - 138:5 (May 1994) -
MAKA93303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -