Makalu | 1993 W Pillar (to 6800m)

A Australia expedition to Makalu in 1993 via W Pillar (to 6800m), led by Ian Collins. Summit reached on 15th October 1993. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1292
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA93302
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar (to 6800m)
Route 2 Left side of W Face to Makalu La
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Ian Collins
Sponsor Chase Manhattan Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-04
Summit Date 1993-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to bad snow conditions, wind & lack of manpower
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/09,5400m),C1(11/09,6100m),C2(19/09,6400m),xxx(01/10,6800m); Biv(14/10,6600m),xxx(15/10,7400m)
Route Notes BC at east side of Chago Glacier above normal high BC site C1 at start of ridge leading to West Pillar C2 at base of pillar Biv at left side of West Face (Kukuczka route) High points on West Pillar and Makalu La. From C2 fixed 600m and then decided chances of getting to top weren't good; lot of snow, more than normally encountered; lack of manpower (Leicester only couple of carries, Baird eye problem and King slow to accustom himself to high mountain) at the beginning. Germans left and took their share of pooled gear with them. So after having reached 6800-6900m on pillar decided to shift to route which gave better chance of summit success. Changed to Kukuzcka route (whether ministry knew about route changes, don't know). Czechs had left fixed ropes and biv at their C2 on 14 Oct at 6600m by 4 members. 15 Oct Groom and Squires on up, Groom to Makalu La and descended to meet Squires to report snow knee deep and strong wind so climb finished. Bigger and stronger team needed and in spring perhaps better for less snow.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Su-Swagatam Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452259
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar (to 6800m)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Warwick Baird M 1961 Australia Climber Bondi, NSW, Australia Attorney Details Other expeditions
Ian (John) Collins M 1956 Australia Leader Wollstonecroft, NSW, Australia Banker Details Other expeditions
Michael Graeme Groom M 1959 Australia Climber Moorooka, QLD, Australia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Wil King M 1946 Australia Climber Hartley Vale, NSW, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Leicester M 1946 Australia Exp Doctor Haberfield, NSW, Australia Neurologist Details Other expeditions
Warwick Payten M 1964 Australia Climber Sydney, NSW, Australia Materials engineer Details Other expeditions
Mark Squires M 1954 New Zealand Climber Cremorne, NSW, Australia Conference organizer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA93302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:205-206 (1994) -
MAKA93302 HIGH - - - 138:5 (May 1994) -
MAKA93302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -