Makalu | 1993 W Pillar

A Germany expedition to Makalu in 1993 via W Pillar, led by Juergen Knappe. Summit reached on 2nd October 1993. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1295
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA93301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Juergen Knappe
Sponsor German Makalu Expedition 1993
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-02
Summit Date 1993-10-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1993-10-07
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6795m due to bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 6795
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1700
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/09,5450m),C1(12/09,5950m),C2(01/10,6550m),xxx(02/10,6795m)
Route Notes BC at high BC C1 at end of rock and below Pt 6150m on Schneider map C2 at Australians camp High point on West Pillar. Spent 3 rest days on way to BC and 10 days at BC for acclimatizing. 11th 2 members up to look for route to C1 and climb started. Worked with Australians in fixing rope. Had good weather only 16-21 Sept and 27 Sept afterwards; winds set in 2 October. Used Australians C2 during rope fixing period (6550m); summit bid not possible because again heavy storm. Thought of changing to normal route, but snow deep there too and French had problems with this route.
Accidents Gutsch virus & down to yak hut 24th Sept
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452246
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rainer Bolesch M 1961 Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Anton Gutsch M 1964 Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, Germany Student of surveying & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Juergen Knappe M 1962 Germany Leader Landau, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany Dental technician Details Other expeditions
Axel Schloenvogt M 1962 Germany Climber Karlsruhe, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Telecommunications engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA93301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:205-206 (1994) -
MAKA93301 HIGH - - - 138:5 (May 1994) -
MAKA93301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -