Makalu | 1993 W Face (to 7600m)

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1993 via W Face (to 7600m), led by Oreste Forno. Summit reached on 22nd May 1993. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1227
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA93101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (to 7600m)
Route 2 NW side
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Oreste Forno
Sponsor Goggi Sport Makalu Expedition 1993
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 40th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, Slovenia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-04-05
Summit Date 1993-05-22
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 47
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1993-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,5300m),C1(08/04,5700m),C2(11/04,6200m),C3(15/04,7000m),C4(16/05,7500m),Smt(22/05)
Route Notes BC at normal high BC C1 east of same ABC C2 at beginning of Hanging Glacier C4 at ice hole High point at West Face. C3 place for tent so had to carry up platform which installed 24th April (15th April spent night sitting in biv tent). Had slow progress because of route difficulty and frequent snowfall. Attempt on 17th May to move up with C4 tent and gear to make C5 at 7800m and then meet S Ridge at 8000m, but rock is steep and doesn't hold pitons. Did not see any pitons, etc. from any early attempt. Certainly highest altitude of Polish and British effort in 1981 was no higher than 7600m. So down to BC and sent up Sherpas to bring down camps and try normal route. Left BC on 20th (6 members and 3 porters). Made series of bivs: 20th at 6500m, 21 at 7500m, 22nd 4 members and 2 Tamangs on top more or less together, stayed on top half-hour, biv at 8000m at 9 pm; 23rd down to 6300m and 24th BC.
Accidents Mingma Tamang frostbitten toes (may lose parts)
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452113
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face (to 7600m)

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Graziano Bianchi M 1937 Italy Climber Erba, Como, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Floriano Castelnuovo M 1956 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Worker on high rock walls Details Other expeditions
Oreste Forno M 1951 Italy Leader Osnago, Como, Italy Freelance climber & writer Details Other expeditions
Fabio Iacchini M 1967 Italy Climber Macugnaga, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fabrizio Manoni M 1963 Italy Climber Premosello, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Riccardo Milani M 1968 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Worker on high rock walls Details Other expeditions
Salvatore Panzeri M 1963 Italy Climber Costamasnaga, Como, Italy Worker on high rock walls Details Other expeditions
Bruno Pennati M 1962 Italy Climber Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Antonio Prestini M 1964 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Dario Spreafico M 1962 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Leopold Sulovsky M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Novy Ilan, Czechoslovakia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Miroslav (Slavko) Sveticic M 1958 Slovenia Climber Cerkno, Slovenia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Thomaseth M 1947 Italy Climber Terlano, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide & cameraman Details Other expeditions
Tirtha Tamang M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingmar (Mingma) Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker Chimding, Kerung, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA93101 AAJ Forno, Oreste - - 68:205 (1994) -
MAKA93101 HIGH - - - 130:8-9 (Sep 1993) -
MAKA93101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420501/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt-by-West-Face-and-Ascent-by-Normal-Route - - -