Makalu | 1993 W Face (to 7600m)
A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1993 via W Face (to 7600m), led by Oreste Forno. Summit reached on 22nd May 1993. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1227 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA93101 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face (to 7600m) |
| Route 2 | NW side |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Oreste Forno |
| Sponsor | Goggi Sport Makalu Expedition 1993 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 40th |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Czechoslovakia, Slovenia |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 1993-05-22 |
| Summit Time | 1430 |
| Summit Days | 47 |
| Total Days | 51 |
| Termination Date | 1993-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/04,5300m),C1(08/04,5700m),C2(11/04,6200m),C3(15/04,7000m),C4(16/05,7500m),Smt(22/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal high BC C1 east of same ABC C2 at beginning of Hanging Glacier C4 at ice hole High point at West Face. C3 place for tent so had to carry up platform which installed 24th April (15th April spent night sitting in biv tent). Had slow progress because of route difficulty and frequent snowfall. Attempt on 17th May to move up with C4 tent and gear to make C5 at 7800m and then meet S Ridge at 8000m, but rock is steep and doesn't hold pitons. Did not see any pitons, etc. from any early attempt. Certainly highest altitude of Polish and British effort in 1981 was no higher than 7600m. So down to BC and sent up Sherpas to bring down camps and try normal route. Left BC on 20th (6 members and 3 porters). Made series of bivs: 20th at 6500m, 21 at 7500m, 22nd 4 members and 2 Tamangs on top more or less together, stayed on top half-hour, biv at 8000m at 9 pm; 23rd down to 6300m and 24th BC. |
| Accidents | Mingma Tamang frostbitten toes (may lose parts) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Kunga |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452113 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face (to 7600m) |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graziano Bianchi | M | 1937 | Italy | Climber | Erba, Como, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Floriano Castelnuovo | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Worker on high rock walls | Details Other expeditions |
| Oreste Forno | M | 1951 | Italy | Leader | Osnago, Como, Italy | Freelance climber & writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Fabio Iacchini | M | 1967 | Italy | Climber | Macugnaga, Novara, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Fabrizio Manoni | M | 1963 | Italy | Climber | Premosello, Novara, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Riccardo Milani | M | 1968 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Worker on high rock walls | Details Other expeditions |
| Salvatore Panzeri | M | 1963 | Italy | Climber | Costamasnaga, Como, Italy | Worker on high rock walls | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruno Pennati | M | 1962 | Italy | Climber | Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio Prestini | M | 1964 | Italy | Exp Doctor | Milano, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Dario Spreafico | M | 1962 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Leopold Sulovsky | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Novy Ilan, Czechoslovakia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav (Slavko) Sveticic | M | 1958 | Slovenia | Climber | Cerkno, Slovenia | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Thomaseth | M | 1947 | Italy | Climber | Terlano, Bolzano, Italy | Alpine guide & cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Tirtha Tamang | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingmar (Mingma) Tamang | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chimding, Kerung, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA93101 | AAJ | Forno, Oreste | - | - | 68:205 (1994) | - |
| MAKA93101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 130:8-9 (Sep 1993) | - |
| MAKA93101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420501/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt-by-West-Face-and-Ascent-by-Normal-Route | - | - | - |