Makalu | 1992 W Face (to 7000m)

A UK expedition to Makalu in 1992 via W Face (to 7000m), led by Nick Mason. Summit reached on 14th May 1992. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1106
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA92101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (to 7000m)
Route 2 NW side (to 8250m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Nick Mason
Sponsor British Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-04-02
Summit Date 1992-05-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 42
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1992-05-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8250m due to wind and lack of strength
High Point (m) 8250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,5000m),ABC(08/04,5580m),C1(14/04,5900m),C2A(20/04,6480m),C2B(01/05,6700m); NWside-C2(09/05,6500m),C3(12/05,7400m),C4(13/05,7800m),xxx(14/05,8250m)
Route Notes BC at normal BC southwest of lake ABC opposite West Face (above normal high BC at lower end of Chago Glacier) C1 at top of Icefall, nearly an hour from start of West Face C2A at hanging glacier at lower part of face C2B at Chago Glacier slightly above US C2 C3 at Makalu La C4 on North Face very close to NW Ridge High point on West Face. Expedition rested a day a Tumlingtar, 5 days at Tashigaon for telecasting and acclimatizing, a day at Yangri Kharka, 2 stops below Barun Pokhari BC area before making BC. Rheinberger placed C1 & C2 for W Face route, but fixed rope at bottom of face taken away by falling serac which was repaired a couple of times and then not replaced; placed C2A also. Climbed above C2A to 7000m 60 degrees on 1 May by Reinberger and Taylor and slept with 2 Sherpas at C2A. On 2nd May spindrift came roaring down face down to ABC. Decided summit bid nil and dangerous rock fall so 3-4 May to abandon face. Discussed alternative of W Pillar but finally decided to go for normal route for which permit received on 7th May (for $8000 additional peak fee after some official said $18,000 and leader disqualified for climbing in Nepal for 5 yrs in mistaken belief that leader had actually gone up normal route). Diplock and Rheinberger chosen for 1st summit, Taylor and Welch 2nd, Flannery, Hudson and Filzek 3rd (but Filzek dropped out). Tents for C2 pitched on 8th and occupied by Rheinberger and Diplock plus 8 Sherpas on 9th, rested there on 10th. 11th May all set out to turn back at c6900m and back to C2 having dropped loads at 6900m. 12th May all got to C3. 13th 6 Sherpas and 2 members set out to place C4 at 7800m and slept there by Ang Jangbu, Dawa Nuru, Rheinberger and Diplock. Intended to leave for summit push at midnight but had started snowing in early evening and kept on snowing; 4:30 am on 14th cleared and left C4 5 am; got to narrow couloir in snow; climbed up this for 6 hrs with Sherpa slightly ahead and at 3 pm emerged at top of it at 8250m, quite weary. Now started snowing, decided to turn back, thinking were only at 8050m and figured 5-6 hrs more climbing well into dark. Now had problem of descending couloir in soft snow which did with some difficulty. 4 men reached C4 about 6:30-6:45pm. 2 Sherpas immediately quickly to C3 and down to ABC late next afternoon. Welch, Taylor and 2 Sherpas to C4 16th May. Bad weather forecast, tent poles already broken, and wind by midnight prevented their moving out. Left C4 17th May and reached C2. Hudson and Flannery to C3 17th May where Sherpas were. 18th May down to C2 because of winds & C4 probably blown away. Adrian Burgess - 30 May 1992 Britain Makalu "Was well organized - they just didn't have the depth of experience," but "weren't Kamikazi;" admitted West Face too much for them and got off it; no one hurt. ME Education and BMC refused to endorse it, Bonington and Scott critized it, but people have to climb in their own style and at their own level of experience. These people have learned a lot.
Accidents Filzek altitude sickness but recovered; Mason also sick from altitude
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451739
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face (to 7000m)

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Diplock M 1951 UK Deputy Leader Heathfield, E Sussex, England Staff member (house parent) at outdoor pursuits centre Details Other expeditions
Francis (Zak) Filzek M 1955 UK Climber Corris, Powys, Wales Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Mike Flannery M 1962 UK Climber Blackburn, Lancashire, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Richard Hudson M 1965 UK Climber North Kelvinside, Glasgow, Scotland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Nicholas R. (Nick) Mason M 1953 UK Leader Tal-y-Bont, Conway, Gwynedd, Wales Alpinist & lecturer on mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Michael Anthony Rheinberger M 1940 Australia Climber Parkville, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Terry Taylor M 1960 UK Climber Gwynedd, Wales Physician Details Other expeditions
Martin Welch M 1962 UK Climber Kingussie, Inverness, Scotland Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Cliff White M 1965 UK Member Falmouth, Cornwall, England Engineer for off-shore oil rigs Details Other expeditions
Judy Clark F 1957 UK Exp Doctor Tywyn, Gwynedd, Wales Physician Details Other expeditions
Richard Galpin M 1963 UK Member London, England BBC TV/radio journalist Details Other expeditions
Russell Harris M 1957 UK Member Lymm, Cheshire, England BBC TV broadcaster Details Other expeditions
Alan Hughes M 1950 UK Member Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales Freelance movie photographer Details Other expeditions
Wyn Jones M 1965 UK Member Llanrwst, Gwynedd, Wales Camera technician Details Other expeditions
Nia Mason F 1954 UK Climber Tal-y-Bont, Conway, Gwynedd, Wales Nurse Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Sandy) Simpson M 1948 UK Member Southampton, Hampshire, England Lieutenant Commander in Royal Navy Details Other expeditions
Martin Steer M 1956 UK Member Barry, S Glamorgan, Wales Manager of leisure center Details Other expeditions
Peter Towes M 1949 UK Member Blaenan, Wales Insurance salesman Details Other expeditions
Ang Jangbu Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA92101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:208 (1993) -
MAKA92101 HIGH - - - 117:7-8 (Aug 1992) -
MAKA92101 HIGH Taylor, Terry - - 119:5-7 (Oct 1992) -
MAKA92101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199320801/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -
MAKA92101 HIGH - - - 119:4-7 (Oct 1992) -