Makalu | 1991 W Pillar

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1991 via W Pillar, led by Carles Valles. Summit reached on 2nd October 1991. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 617
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA91301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Carles Valles
Sponsor Climax Expedition to W Pillar Makalu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 37th w/Swz
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-08-17
Summit Date 1991-10-02
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 46
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/08,5400m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(04/09,6500m),C3(18/09,7300m),Biv1(30/09,7800m),Biv2(01/10,7900m),Smt(02/10)
Route Notes BC on ridge just above glacier's junction C1 at beginning of snow C2 at West Pillar C3 at West Pillar Biv1 at West Pillar's top nearly Biv2 at West Pillar's top nearly. After C3 establish all 3-4 days in BC. On 28 Sept 3 members started up and slept in C2. 29 Sept to C3. 3 members to 1st biv on 30th Sept made in night. 2nd biv only Badiola and Valles who picked better site for biv in daylight while Jover down to BC very tired. 2 Oct 2 members to summit leaving 2nd biv at midnight and on top at 11:30 am (Badiola) and 12 noon (Valles). In descent at 8300m at 12:30 pm stones falling. Bodiola fell down East Face. Valles reached Badiola and found him dead, thus climb finished. Martinez in BC after difficulty of climb, Jover tired and Blazquez has tooth infection. Report from Carles Valles to Tourism Ministry dated BC - 4 Oct 91: The day 2 of October we climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar. We left last camp at 8000m 1:00 am 2 Oct. We climb the summit of Makalu from West Pillar in 10 hours. We stay in summit 30 minutes and after go down. The accident people is Manu Badiola. In 8300m in West Ridge he is go [fell] down the NE-East Face 800m down. I go to rescue and he is dead.
Accidents Blazquez tooth infection; Bodiola fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451513
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Manu Badiola Otegi M 1954 Spain Climber Oredeta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Bus driver Details Other expeditions
Gerardo Blazquez Garcia M 1944 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain House builder Details Other expeditions
Juan Jover Garcia M 1961 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Journalist Details Other expeditions
Rafel Martinez Vilaseca M 1953 Spain Exp Doctor Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Carles Valles Ocana M 1958 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Shoe salesman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA91301 AAJ Braham, Trevor - - 66:193 (1992) -
MAKA91301 - Valles, Carles La Realidad de un Sueno L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain - V121
MAKA91301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199219301/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Ascent-of-the-West-Pillar-and-Tragedy - - -