Makalu | 1991 W Face (new rte)

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1991 via W Face (new rte), led by Casimiro Ferrari. Summit reached on 7th May 1991. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 771
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA91102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (new rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Casimiro Ferrari
Sponsor City of Lecco Expedition 1991 Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-04-03
Summit Date 1991-05-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7300m due to wind, difficult route, exhaustion, etc
High Point (m) 7300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 2300
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5300m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(20/04,6500m),C3(01/05,7050m),xxx(07/05,7300m)
Route Notes BC above glacier near glacier's junction C1 north of point 6180m High point at West Face. Very strong winds after 7th April and tents broken. Fixed 500m rope up from C1 and below C3 about 1000m of rope and 800m more to 7300m to top for a small ridge and start of very steep section. After reached 7300m wind strong and blowing much snow on to route. Now very cold and feet begining to freeze. Others not able to forge ahead. 12th May S Panzeri and Spreafico were only climbers techinically capable of moving fast enough and they tried again but feet gave a lot of pain and turned back. All members reached C2 but only Spreafico and Panzeri brothers reached C3 (plus Ferrari for 1 night). S Panzeri and Spreafico want to come again and finish route up "very good granite" above hard ice; ice 60 degeees (below C3). Negri arrived at BC 24th April because had had ski accident; he reached C2 and then knee swelled up and had to stop. Oxygen used only by sick Sherpa who had pulmonary edema.
Accidents 1 Sherpa pulmonary edema; 2 members start of frostbite; Negri arrived at BC late because had had ski accident (he reached C2 and then Knee swelled up and had to stop)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451365
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face (new rte)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Casimiro Ferrari M 1940 Italy Leader Ballabio, Como, Italy Factory manager Details Other expeditions
Lorenzo Mazzoleni M 1966 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Chef Details Other expeditions
Mario Luciano Panzeri M 1964 Italy Climber Costamasnaga, Como, Italy Worker on high rock walls Details Other expeditions
Salvatore Panzeri M 1963 Italy Climber Costamasnaga, Como, Italy Worker on high rock walls Details Other expeditions
Francesco Paracchini M 1959 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Dario Spreafico M 1962 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Marco Negri M 1967 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Wholesale clothing salesman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA91102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:191-192 (1992) -
MAKA91102 MM - - - 140:7 (Jul 1991) -
MAKA91102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199219103/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Face-Attempt - - -