Makalu | 1990 Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7400m)

A Poland expedition to Makalu in 1990 via Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7400m), led by Krzysztof Wielicki. Summit reached on 20th December 1990. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 732
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA90401
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1990
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge (to 7400m)
Route 2 W Pillar (to 7300m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Krzysztof Wielicki
Sponsor Polish International Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-12-05
Summit Date 1990-12-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1991-01-11
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes W Pillar route abandoned at 7300m due to winds
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/12,4800m),C1(08/12,5600m),C2(04/12,6500m),C3(20/12,7400m),xxx(20/12,7400m); WPillar.Biv1(27/12,6100m),Biv2(28/12,6600m),Biv3(04/01,7300m),xxx(05/01,7300m)
Route Notes BC west of Barun Pokhari C1 on normal route for acclimatization C2 on normal route for acclimatization C3 on normal route for acclimatization Biv 1 on West Pillar Biv 2 on West Pillar Biv 3 on West Pillar. Acclimatized on normal route to Makalu La, where wind so strong tent probably destroyed soon after departure on 21 Dec. Then Wielicki went to pillar alone; from BC 27th Dec started 2:00 am from glacier, 11:00 am from bottom of pillar and biv at 6100m because of heavy load at 4:00 pm at good protected place. 28th Dec 9:00 am up again reached 6600m at 2 pm when started to snow. 29th Dec down from 6600m to BC. 2nd summit attempt again by Wielicki alone on 4th Jan. Started from BC at 3:00 am and 3:00 pm reached 2nd biv at 6600m, where had left tent. 5th Jan to mixed rock and snow, very long and complicated, dangerous and difficult in descent; 4:00 pm reached just below 7300m where there were many ropes and therefore easier; couldn't pitch tent in strong wind. Had planned to go to top and return to 3rd biv in same day; so down to BC on 5th with clear skies but impossible winds. No problem of technical difficulty but winds getting stronger so no use waiting longer. Left BC 11th Jan after decision to quit on 9th or 10th Jan.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451226
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge (to 7400m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ingrid M. Baeyens F 1956 Belgium Climber Ramsel, Antwerp, Belgium Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Anna Barbara Czerwinska F 1949 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Jan Pawlowski M 1950 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Leader Tychy, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA90401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:216 (1991) -
MAKA90401 MM - - - 138:8 (Mar 1991) -
MAKA90401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121604/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Pillar-Winter-Attempt - - -