Makalu | 1990 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1990 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Bela Vadasz. Summit reached on 17th October 1990. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 715
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA90306
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Bela Vadasz
Sponsor Alpine Skills International Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-22
Summit Date 1990-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1990-10-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/09,5300m),C1(03/10,6300m),Biv1(15/10,6650m),Biv2(16/10,6980m),Biv3(17/10,7400m),xxx(17/10,7400m)
Route Notes BC at Barun Glacier's east side around from normal high BC C1 at Chago Glacier where it gets steep Biv1 at Chago Glacier steep section Biv2 at Chago Glacier before entering Messner couloir Biv3 at Makalu La (high point). From C1 started alpine-style climb (but Sherpas made deposits). Had 3 bivouacs above C1. Spent Oct 3rd to 15th at C1 acclimatizing with brief rest at BC for 2 days. Expedition divided into separate climbing groups led by Vadasz and Ritchie. Vadasz group had 7 members at start (Burch, Farkas, Jonelis, Riggs, Schapera, Vadasz, Mrs Vadasz) but Jonelis went home and Farkas transferred to Ritchie group. Vadasz group made three bivouacs at 6650m, 6980m and 7400m. High winds stopped group on Oct 18 at 7400m. Oct 18th instead of going for summit when down at 1 pm when winds did not drop from 60 mph (with gusts up to 100 mph) and then went down to C1 to watch winds. When winds did not decrease but increased decided to stop. In BC waited even longer and watched winds. Ritchie group got no higher than 23,000 ft (7000m) in couloir on 16th Oct and turned around because of wind, logistical problems and lack of strength. This party had 1 of the 3 Sherpas with them. They made own fixed C1 and C2 (their camps at same altitudes as Vadasz's group bivs) moving a day behind. Both groups left BC on 25th Oct. LO refused to allow expedition to trek out over the cols (Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu) since this was not in the plan.
Accidents Jonelis and Stevens had viral infections and left early
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451162
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Thomas C. Burch M 1956 USA Climber Greenbrae, California Attorney Details Other expeditions
James (Jim) Farkas M 1955 USA Climber El Segundo, California Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Frank Jonelis M 1949 USA Climber Mill Valley, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Morris Kittleman M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Nurseryman (landscape plants grower) Details Other expeditions
David Riggs M 1961 USA Climber Portage, Michigan Attorney Details Other expeditions
Stephen Ritchie M 1966 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Anthony Schapera M 1953 USA Climber Sausalito, California Anesthesiologist Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Stevens M 1956 USA Climber Washington, DC World Bank staff member Details Other expeditions
Kevin Turinsky M 1964 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Student Details Other expeditions
Bela G. Vadasz M 1953 USA Leader Norden, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maria Y. (Mimi) Vadasz F 1954 USA Deputy Leader Norden, California Ski & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA90306 AAJ Vadasz, Bela and Mimi - - 65:216 (1991) -
MAKA90306 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121602/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -