Makalu | 1990 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A USA expedition to Makalu in 1990 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Bela Vadasz. Summit reached on 17th October 1990. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 715 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA90306 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Bela Vadasz |
| Sponsor | Alpine Skills International Makalu Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Canada |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-09-22 |
| Summit Date | 1990-10-17 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 25 |
| Total Days | 33 |
| Termination Date | 1990-10-25 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds |
| High Point (m) | 7400 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(27/09,5300m),C1(03/10,6300m),Biv1(15/10,6650m),Biv2(16/10,6980m),Biv3(17/10,7400m),xxx(17/10,7400m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Barun Glacier's east side around from normal high BC C1 at Chago Glacier where it gets steep Biv1 at Chago Glacier steep section Biv2 at Chago Glacier before entering Messner couloir Biv3 at Makalu La (high point). From C1 started alpine-style climb (but Sherpas made deposits). Had 3 bivouacs above C1. Spent Oct 3rd to 15th at C1 acclimatizing with brief rest at BC for 2 days. Expedition divided into separate climbing groups led by Vadasz and Ritchie. Vadasz group had 7 members at start (Burch, Farkas, Jonelis, Riggs, Schapera, Vadasz, Mrs Vadasz) but Jonelis went home and Farkas transferred to Ritchie group. Vadasz group made three bivouacs at 6650m, 6980m and 7400m. High winds stopped group on Oct 18 at 7400m. Oct 18th instead of going for summit when down at 1 pm when winds did not drop from 60 mph (with gusts up to 100 mph) and then went down to C1 to watch winds. When winds did not decrease but increased decided to stop. In BC waited even longer and watched winds. Ritchie group got no higher than 23,000 ft (7000m) in couloir on 16th Oct and turned around because of wind, logistical problems and lack of strength. This party had 1 of the 3 Sherpas with them. They made own fixed C1 and C2 (their camps at same altitudes as Vadasz's group bivs) moving a day behind. Both groups left BC on 25th Oct. LO refused to allow expedition to trek out over the cols (Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu) since this was not in the plan. |
| Accidents | Jonelis and Stevens had viral infections and left early |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Wilderness Experience |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451162 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thomas C. Burch | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Greenbrae, California | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| James (Jim) Farkas | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | El Segundo, California | Computer programmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Frank Jonelis | M | 1949 | USA | Climber | Mill Valley, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Morris Kittleman | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Nurseryman (landscape plants grower) | Details Other expeditions |
| David Riggs | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Portage, Michigan | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Stephen Ritchie | M | 1966 | Canada | Climber | Calgary, Alberta | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Anthony Schapera | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Sausalito, California | Anesthesiologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan Stevens | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Washington, DC | World Bank staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Kevin Turinsky | M | 1964 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Bela G. Vadasz | M | 1953 | USA | Leader | Norden, California | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Maria Y. (Mimi) Vadasz | F | 1954 | USA | Deputy Leader | Norden, California | Ski & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA90306 | AAJ | Vadasz, Bela and Mimi | - | - | 65:216 (1991) | - |
| MAKA90306 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121602/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt | - | - | - |