Makalu | 1990 SE Buttress

A Japan expedition to Makalu in 1990 via SE Buttress, led by Kenzi Shimakata. Summit reached on 8th November 1990. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 709
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA90304
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Buttress
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kenzi Shimakata
Sponsor 1990 Showa Alpine Club Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-13
Summit Date 1990-11-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 56
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7050m due to fierce winds
High Point (m) 7050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,4760m),C1(27/09,5750m),C2(07/10,6420m),xxx(08/11,7050m)
Route Notes BC at Tangnag, south of Barun Glacier C1 at top of small mountain south of Makalu C2 at SE Buttress High point at SE Buttress. Fujita got altitude sickness night they arrived at BC and had to be evacuated by helicopter to KTM. Returned to BC 8 Oct, after Shimakata and Sherpa had made C1 and C2. Now winds became very strong for a week, lessened for few days and again period of strong wind. Shimataka to BC 10 Oct. 15 Oct both members and Sherpas up to C1 and reached 6600m on 16th and driven back to C1 by wind. At C1 3 days and down to BC but this time tent at C1 broken by wind. 22 Oct again up by all climbers to C1 and stayed there 18 days. Above C1 route exposed to wind, which even blew away fixed rope on this section. Down to BC 9 Nov; had abandoned idea of reaching main summit but hoped for SE Summit on 12 Nov. When Fujita and Moti Lal could get only to 7050m on 8th, then gave up all attempt to climb. Would like to try this very good route in true alpine-style, 2 members with no Sherpas or fixed camps.
Accidents Fujita pulmonary edema; 1 Gurung slightly frostbitten fingers
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451184
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se buttress

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shinji Fujita M 1956 Japan Climber Matsudo, Chiba, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Kenji Shimakata M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA90304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:216 (1991) -
MAKA90304 IWA - - - :215 (1991) -
MAKA90304 IWA - - - :44 (1991) -
MAKA90304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121603/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempts - - -